On monday Dior, Margiela, Armani, Mabille and so on, presented their high fashion shows. Then, yesterday Chanel and Givenchy showed their collections and today the week is closed by Gaultier and Valentino.
But, all these things don't matter with the post. I'd like to speak about Dior and Margiela, today, and then of the other designers.
I start with Dior that is my absolutely favourite brand and show in haute couture week. Galliano is fresh, creative and genious and all these adjectives are not only words but reality. However, you remind the f/w 2010 show of Dior couture that was defined by fresh and spring colors that were more suitable to that season than to winter. Now we see a show for the following spring that is more suitable for the winter than for the spring, so is Galliano crazy or could we understand it if we watch to it by a different point of view? I believer that EVOLUTION is the key word to understand all the fashion world...So, if we consider the colors like provocation, like a desire to aovid the clichè and we consdier the shapes (more squared like the f/w 2010 Armani show, more soft and less "exagerate" in the classic meaning of the word like the last Galliano's couture shows, more conceptual and less sexy...) we will understand that Galliano is trying to evolve his vision of couture to reach a new level where the sex appeal and the "past details, past luxe" (that are everytime present in his collections) are replaced by a conceptual and more consciou knowledge of fashion. In the end, and in easier words it's clear that couture is something that must be admired and left speechless and doesn't need all these words that I spent...So, enjoy it without think too much.
About Margiela, I have to say that I love this maison and so my judgements could be a bit subjective and not really objective. By the way, when someone say "Margiela couture" everyone thinks to a stupid, useless and completely unwearable couture...it's so right! But also here the things are changed, developed, evolved. In the s/s 2011, Margiela showed cardboard shapes dresses and here the masion developed the concept in a more wearable way. Here I can see something more similar to beauty than only to "simple0 creativity and conceptuality", here Margiela arrived to a kind of couture that is (even if it will be worn only by "fashion addicted" and "Margiela lovers"...) more wearable than normal. Maybe it's the absence of Martin Margiela, its team chose a more "commercial" way to make clothes (in this case with commercial I mean wearable...). So, to end the post, I love this collection (it's the first time I really love a Margiela high fashion collection). But the most beautiful things are, for me, the transparence coat (last pic), [the first interesting result of this kind of coat], and the squared dresses (the right one in particular) where the "intrecciato lavoration" and the shapes are amazingly gathered with a nice result...this is the real minimalism but also the "Prada's maximalism"!