Lanvin....greek goddess!

This dress is an amazing gabardine and satin washed minidress from the s/s 2011 of Lanvin. Lanvin takes a lot of inspirations from the ancient goddess (obviously, I'm referring not to the "divinities" but to their sculptures...). The drapes, the silhouette, the absence of big volumes or the exagerations of volumes, strong women: this is  a summary of the main features of the "Lanvin woman". So this dress is a bit strange for its colors and initially it could seem a bit strange, unconventional, maybe ugly...But then it is addictive. You want it, you need it, all yur attention is captured by the leather belt, then by the satin asimmetrical detail and then by the minidress for its aestethic. So, I can say that this is the most representatvie dress of the Lanvin essence, Elbaz vision of fashion.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

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Posted in Alber Elbaz , dresses , Lanvin , LuisaViaRoma , s/s 2011

Gareth Pugh...futuristic PVC!

Gareth Pugh is one fo the most innovative and futuristic designers. This dress that he realized for the s/s 2011 collection is something amazing. The collection looks forward and this dress shows exactly this thing: fashion, and maybe also us, needs to look forward and to have a new conception of itself. A fashion that's not only based on the simple creativity and quality but that takes people to go in another world, in another epoque.

So I beleive that this PVC dress, also worn by Anna dello Russo (the fashion editor of Vogue Japan and my principal "style muse") is the slogan of that collection, for me, because it contains all the meanings and the design concepts that were presented in the show. I love this dress, if it is still not clear...

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

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Posted in dresses , Gareth Pugh , LuisaViaRoma , Paris fashion week , s/s 2011

Jacobs and Vuitton...two shoes, one heel!

In the f/w 2009 Louis Vuitton purposes ana amzing pairs of shoes with a clepsydra heel that was decorated by two pearls in the middle of the heel. For the following sprins, s/s 2011, Marc Jacobs repurposed this heel with some differences. The heel is more similar to a stiletto and in the middle there is only one glittered, silver, pearl that "substains" all the heel. I believe that the two shoes represents two differents kind of girl: the Vuitton one is somehting more strong for women who known perfectly their fashion preference, their style; the second one, Jacobs one, is for the girls who are still understanding their fashion style, like a meatamorphosis. In fact, I belive that Jacobs in his two principal lines (Marc Jacobs and Vuitton, forget, at least now, his young line Marc by Marc Jacobs) thinks to two different kind of woman (like the most old one and the most young one, but not in age, in knowledge of their own style). It is very confused what I wrote but I'm sure that you'll understand the concept, at least.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

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Posted in f/w 2009 , Louis Vuitton , LuisaViaRoma , Marc Jacobs , s/s 2011

Proenza Schouler...pre-fall 2011!

I don't like to speak about pre-collections because I believe that they are more a "commercial necessity" than one of fashion or people. However, some of these collections are cool and beautiful by the fashion point of view.
It's easy to say that Proenza Schouler is beautiful (maybe the most appreciated brand of this period...) but if you look with attention the collection you'd understand some things. The asimmetrical hem, the special necks of the cardigans and teh shapes. The patterns are colorfull and really new not the simply flower prints or color-blocking...These prints looks inspired by modern art and futuristic ideas.  The main themes of the collection are the asimmetry, the patterns and the men elements mixed with feminine ones.  The bags are the new PS models with the unqiue lock and  the pants are "Marni style" (for shapes) that should be nice on catwalk but could be not so beautiful on the streets...In the end, I love the complete collection!

Summary of men shows:

• Alexander McQueen:A collection that doesn't express the style of the british designer and his main features. So I don't like it!
• Dsquared: Nothing really special...
• Ermanno Scervino: Great down jackets and use of wool, I love Scervino's collections!
• Etro: My favourite menswear collection for the paisley prints (caracteristic of Etro), for the wodnerful nuances of browns, for the leathers kinds used and so on!! You must see Etro's show!
• Gucci: Amazing coats and jacket, especially for the use of materials: Frida is doing a wonderful work in the last collection of Gucci.
• Iceberg: Fresh and adult collection, that look more right for spring than winter...but gorgeus!
• Jil Sander: The trend of this spring goes on with fluo color mixed with light ones...An awesome, simple, show!!
• John Richmond: Big use of fur coats (very volgar in those versions...) and the patetic "Richmond style" by which everyone is bored.
• Marni: Boring, boring, boring, boring, boring...unwearable! These are the words that I think every time I see a Marni men show...
• Marc Jacobs: Classic "jacobs" men revamped by new accessories.
• Moncler: Innovation about jackets and accessories, expecially by the mix of different materials.
• Moschino: A strange shos full of casual and sport elements that I think are more the demonstration of a lack of creativity than innovation.
• Versace: Classic Versace show with some new things such as the "heavy" sweaters...

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough , pre-f/w 2011 , Proenza Schouler

Woolrich Woolen Mills...f/w 2011

Yesterday I partecipated at a brunch organized by Woolrich to show the menswear collection for the following winter of the line "Woolrich Woolen Mills". At the brunch were present also Bryanboy (his yellow jacket is so chic) and the designer Mark McNairy and I was so closed to them than I can't explain you my joy. I really thanks Woolrich to have invited me and to have given me this amazing possibility. The brunch took place at Galleria Lorenzelli near Corso di Porta Venezia and I was accompanied by my nice friend Chiara.We eat very good food and the buffet was organized in a tent that was linked with the main theem of the collection: Naval, marine and "Ivy League" inspirations.

The napkins (amazing, as Chiara showed me) were realized with the checked piece of textile (you see them in the last pic).

The collection is characterized by an english style mixed with some contemproary and trendy element such as the proportions, the shapes and the "clear lines". The  materials are principal wool purposed in the different patterns and models. The leather jackets are quite classic but really interesting and the coats with the austrian knots define a cool trend for the following winter that also Burberry purposed. The accessories (hats, bow ties, ties and details of coats) are all made with check prints that create a funny aestethic for young and cool men. In the end the shoes, especially the leather boots, are perfect for the clothes purposes (such as the shirts) and I love the "casual-chic" style of them. So, the british style and the american style are mixed amazingly.

The designer who thought these wonderful pieces is Mark McNairy who substitued Daiki Suzuki and who continued to design his line (Mark Mcnairy-New Amsterdam). The Woolrich Woolen Mills is sold at Barney's and Colette, too. The clothes are handmade in America, Pennsylvania, in the historic industry with the same looms of the 1830. I find also very glamourous and interesting the parka realized in collaboration between Mark McNairy and Daiki Suzuki (you can see it in the first image).

At the presentation I also find a book (you see the book cover in the seventh pic) where near each piece of the collection there are the textile with wich is realized.

So, I love the collection, I thanks again Woolrich for the opportunity and the information that gave me about these gorgeus outfits and I suggest you to pay attention about this line because I'm sure it will have a lot of success...

Mark McNairy

Bryanboy

Images by my iPhone and courtesy of Woorlich

Woorlich Woolen Mills website

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Posted in f/w 2011 , jackets , Mark McNairy , menswear , Milano fashion week , Woolrich Woolen Mills

Burberry Prorsum...f/w 2011!

I was watching the menswear shows and I was a bit sad because almost all of them were boring nad not interesting...But then I saw Burberry!! Bailey is a genius and his last collections show this thing. Here the colors, the double breasted coats and the use of materials is so chic that define an evolution (definetly) for the brand: more luxurious and cool, but also with a lot of creativity. The prints, the use of PVC capes (maybe it reminds to you the YSL show...), the color not fluo but not classic are intersting and the patterns too, the down jackets are really cool because of the lavoration (the aestethic)  and the details (very lightfull). I also love the use of fur (chic because it's not "uniform" but made by geometries and decored with contrast materials). The sweaters are very interesting for lavoration and mixed of materials.  My favourite jacket is the left one in the third pic, the only thing I have to criticize is about accessories. I love the crocodile bag (not so Burberry Style but awesome) but I can't see that shoes and bags, oh no.

However is a great collection and I love every season more Burberry I'm litterally dying to see the womenswear collection of the brand...

Summary of the men shows:

• Prada: Maximalism or simple absence of creativity...?
• Bottega veneta: leather and shapes classic but beautiful, but where the creativity is?
• Costume National: an evolution, finally, Ennio Capasa purposes something new and reallyc hic, interesting the asimmetries.
• Ermenegildo Zegna: the brand  purposes new trend and went out of the clichès, elegant the addition of the fur and for the daywear the itlaian maison presents a travel-glamourous man with a lot of charme.
• Gianfranco Ferrè: a delusion after the amazing show of the f/w 2010  this is boring, classic and is somethign horrific to see at ferrè...Where is the creaivity and geniality of Aquilano&Rimondi?
• Jil Sander: Somons goes on with the fluo trend and the extreme simple lines that he creates. I like the collection because it's really Jil Sander style but I don't like the jacket too sportly!
• Missoni: old clothes and not so new, the brand made a lot of effort in womenswear but there's not creativity in menswer. The only new thing are the hats that cover the faces but the appearance of the models is more like old people than mysterious young fascinating men.
• Roberto Cavalli: interesting knitwear and fur coat but the other compeltely boring!
• Salvatore Ferragamo: clean collection, elgant and perfectly allineated with the philosophy of the maison. I love the use of whtie and soft (but strong) color: Massimiliano Giornetti made a wonderful work...the contemporary dandy!
• Vivienne Westwood: one word: finally a wearable collection....

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Burberry , Christopher Bailey , f/w 2011 , menswear , Milano fashion week

Catherine Malandrino...f/w 2010

I believe that the soft shapes, the wonderful use of the fur, the mix between the different kinds of fur and the idea to put together technical texture and wool make this collection so amazing. In particular pay attention to the ruches, the harem pant and the volumes that are developed on the mini dresses: everything so chic, that remind us the "Belle Epoque" period. Also interesting the print that comes out from the mini dress.

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Catherine Malandrino , f/w 2010