Paris f/w 2011...best looks!

                                                    John Galliano

                           Chanel                                               Balenciaga

                                                           Mugler

                                                   Rick Owens

                   Ann Demeulemeester                     Yves Saint Laurent

                                        Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

                                                    Issey Miyake

                          Valentino                                       Stella McCartney

                                                      Céline

                           Lanvin                                                        Vionnet

                                              Louis Vuitton

                Commes des Garçons                             Dries Van Noten

                                               Viktor&Rolf

                              Miu Miu                                                  Balmain

Best show: Haider Ackermann

Worst show: Hermès

[I've never chosen a "worst show" in the past post about fashion weeks, but I need to express my feelings about this collection and so I prefer to dedicate some words here than a "real post"]

When Hermès announced  that Lemaire would have succeeded Gaultier as creative director I was shocked. I saw his s/s collection, of his own line, and it was terrible... However I decided to give him a  possibility, even if it was crazy to put someone who directed Lacoste (despite he worked also, for instance, for Lacroix) to design for Hermès. 

By the way, this collection is a" no-shape"  collection, no volumes and clothes like "potato sacks". The only "nice" thing are the clothes printed with Hermès patterns. The main problem of the show, for me, is that is nothing new. The leather coats, the down jackets, the trousers, the inspiration (please....hawks??) , the prints are all old things and that were made better in the past. 

The last horrible thing is the speech about bags and shoes: ok Hermès wasn't famous for its shoes but it was an institution in bags...And what does Lemaire? preseneted few bags really classic and that doesn't matter with Hermès DNA but only with his inspiration for the collection...I hope that Hermès will fire him or, at least, he will change his style and understand that this is Hermès and not Lacoste.

Images via:
Vogue

Read the rest of this entry »

Posted in Balenciaga , Balmain , Chanel , Christophe Lemaire , Commes des Garçons , Dries Van Noten , Givenchy , Haider Ackermann , Hermès , John Galliano , Kenzo , Miu Miu , Mugler , Stella McCartney

Balmain...pin top!

The t-shirts of Balmain are somethign "legendary" in the last two season and legendary are their prices too. 

The green shirt with some holes of the past season that you saw on a lot of stars, surely, was a boring shirt that, for me, was not chic, glamourous or cool...simply a used shirt.  Instead, this model that is embellished with safety pins (that are one of the most trendy object since the Versace dress worn by Liz Hurley...) is so beautiful. The appearance is not too much used or destroyed but it's almost chic. In particular, the most important thing is that this shirt represent the style and the "fashion idea" of the Decarnin's design: this is the DNA of Balmain (since Decarnin have started to design for this maison). 

But now...speak about the price. This is sold for 1300 euros and the green one for 1000 euros. Ok, the price are completely crazy even if I understand more the 1300 euros for this mdoel than 1000 for the past one. But the question is: Balmain should earn a lot of money to establish its economical position (NYMAG said this on Balmain profile page) but are 5 years that Decarnin is at Balmain, so hasn't Balmain yet solved its economical troubles? 

In the end, I think  (and Anna dello Russo thinks so) that Balmain is the most stylish brand of our epoque and that its creations are the best representation and mix of shabby-chic, elegance and luxe; but the prices are too much expensive and they are not justified by anything...This is the main reason because this shirt will have a lot of success with celebs but nothing in "real life", also in the upper class society.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

Read the rest of this entry »

Posted in Balmain , Christophe Decarnin , Net-a-Porter , s/s 2011