Noritaka Tatehana...skyscraping platform!

Noritaka Tatehana was born in Japan 1985 and he recently created his own brand. I think that you have yet seen some of his very recognizable creations. The key-concept (or if you want the DNA of the maison) of these shoes is the "withouth-heel" sky scraping shoes. The power of these  pieces of art is all in the platform and could remind (just to quote some example from the Runway) the Nina Ricci by Theyskens shoes from the f/w 09/10 or the Berardi ones from s/S 2008; if we think to the fall collection we could think about the wedges of McQueen; if we think to the s/s 2012 there is Zanotti with this amazing wedges. Now the biggest fans are Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinnes. It's like Lady Gaga is living with these show since she wears theme everywhere. I like the idea of having an "invisible heel" of on average 10 inches (25 centimetres) that allow you to seem tall with an avant-garde outfit without adding "heavy heels" (from the aesthethic perspective) to the outfit. The only doubt is about the future of this designer: how long can Tatehana go on with this shoes? Wouldn't they look boring if every season he shows the same concept? If he changes his style (other kind of shoes) wouldn't he change the own DNA of the maison and, so, loose his own identity?... Too much questions, but at the moment I appreciate the unpredictable shoes of this Japanese designer.).

Images via:
Noritaka Tatehana
Gaga Fashionlad
Daphne Guinness

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Posted in Alexander McQueen , Antonio Berardi , f/w 2011 , Giuseppe Zanotti , Nina Ricci , Noritaka Tatehana , Oliver Theyskens , shoes

Resort collections... best looks!

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Burberry , Celine , Chanel , Donna Karan , Giambattista Valli , Givenchy , Lanvin , Nina Ricci , pre-s/s 2012 , Proenza Schouler , Vionnet , Zac Posen

S/S 2011...ruches!

Ruches are conquering every designer. During the last seasons almost every brand decided to use this "decoration" in some different ways. For example, also Simons for Sander uses ruches on maxi skirts; the most minimalistic brand uses ruches. This is one of the things that I would not have ever imagined.

However, we see Valentino, Marchesa, McQueen, Ricci...everywhere an explosion of ruches. McQueen  is such an exageration of ruches that only Marchesa 's gown has more of them. 

I don't know if this is a trend that will end with this season or will continue...Speaking about f/w 2011 this trend is not so spread even if some brands use ruches (but, as I told, some maisons like Valentino and so on use ruches everytime.

Pilati for YSL is the only one who uses contrasting ruches. In fact, on the neck uses pink that contrast with blue and on the hem there is a little ruching underlined by some white pieces of fabric.

Images via: 
Vogue

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Posted in Alexander McQueen , Francesco Scognamiglio , marchesa , Nina Ricci , s/s 2011 , Valentino , Yves Saint Laurent

S/S 2011...feathers!

With the arrival of spring, some days ago, we forget winter to watch to s/s shows that are becoming already old with the recent presentation of the f/w collection. However, some trends continue for some seasons. This is the case of the fluo colors, for instance, and of feathers. The f/w 2011 season was caracterized by a lot of designers (such as Dsquared, Demeulemeester, Giles...) who purposed feathers. Personally I saw a huge use of this material that sometimes could seem heavy and not so chic. 

Speaking about the spring, fortunately, feather are used in a softer way. Bottega Veneta is the best example: the feathers are distributed all over the lower part of the dress and give an effect so glamorous, for me. McQueen exagerated with feathers on the skirt  and on the bustier, the entire look could be a bit dramatic but this is McQueen and we love it for this thing, or at least I love that maison.  Chanel is really gothic, maybe one of the most innovative Lagerfeld's outfits, and this look is very       unconventional for the maison. Gucci use feathers in a way that is very similar as fringes.  

So, I love this trend and  I think that the best dress is the Maier's one  and, in its style, McQueen is the most "particular use of feathers...". (who coul forget the f/w 2009 collection where feather were gorgeus, for me.)

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Alexander McQueen , Bottega Veneta , Chanel , Giambattista Valli , Gucci , Nina Ricci , Zac Posen

Nina Ricci...f/w 2007-2008

I decide to speak about the first collection realized by Theyskens for Nina Ricci in the fall winter 2007-2008. In fact, I'm completely shocked by the completely incompentence of Peter Copping, the actual artistic director of Nina Ricci. Every season he purposes the same, boring and too much sweet, show..

But when Theyskens designed Ricci's collections everything was different (Anna Wintour inserted him into her list of the seven best designer in the world).
The collection was focused on a sofisticated woman that like to be elegant and sexy at the same time. The show starts with oversize sweaters that are decorate with different kind of sewing. The cape and the black mini dress have something that remind me Chanel design. In particular the white fur coat is "so Chanel". Also interesting the black and white cape and the long grey dress: so chic. About the evening dresses it's everything so beautiful. From the yellow ones to the white ones they are so sofisticated. The ruching dress one is very sofisticated and the other ones are developed on the volumes that are constructed on the dresses. In particular the use of the feathers and the "futuristic" shapes express us the visionnaire style of this amazing designer. 

Also interesting the "transparent heel" that shows the futuristic style vision of the designer.

Images via:
Vogue Italia

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Posted in f/w 2007 , Nina Ricci , Oliver Theyskens , Peter Copping