Nicholas Kirkwood....f/w 2011!

Nicholas Kirkwood is famous for his asymmetric platform which he improves with new features every season. He adds pearls, wood, cork, leather ...he used every material for his plateau and this season he also showed a more "soft" version of it that make the shoes quite new. The feathers and the mongolian fur   creates a nice effect that was never obtains on shoes (mongolian fur is more often used for coats). He also created exaggerate wedges and triangular heels, as well as "crooked" ones so the shoes get a new identity, The shoes that he created for the f/w 2011 of Rodarte are influenced by the Mulleavy's collection which took inspiration from Amish communities and Kansas. So we can see classic shoes with new pattern, for Erdem he just uses the print of the brand and put it on the shoes. In the end we can see a lcd shoes which is characteristic for the heel that reminds the "prickle heel" of Roger Vivier he just "moved" the prickle.

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Posted in f/w 2011 , Nicholas Kirkwood , shoes

Gaetano Perrone...innovative shoes!

At the Vogue Fashion Corner I also saw the collection of Gaetano Perrone. This designer experienced at Alexander McQueen and started at Berardi. Her also worked for Ferragamo, Kenzo, Dior, Sergio and Gianvito Rossi. In this collection we can see the "ball as the peculiar element" and the color blocking. The use of feathers and the lightness of some textures is amazing and it develops an amazing shape for the feet. The heels are kinda simple with some particular details like the balls but also a separation between the "heel" and the "toe", obtained with the colors. My favorite one is the shoes in the third picture . It's also nice the platform that is of the right size not exaggerate and not asymmetrical, the simplicity of creativity....quoting Franca Sozzani, sometimes is interesting seeing how designer contain their own genius. 

Images via: 
Gaetano Perrone

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Posted in f/w 2011 , Gaetano Perrone , shoes

Noritaka Tatehana...skyscraping platform!

Noritaka Tatehana was born in Japan 1985 and he recently created his own brand. I think that you have yet seen some of his very recognizable creations. The key-concept (or if you want the DNA of the maison) of these shoes is the "withouth-heel" sky scraping shoes. The power of these  pieces of art is all in the platform and could remind (just to quote some example from the Runway) the Nina Ricci by Theyskens shoes from the f/w 09/10 or the Berardi ones from s/S 2008; if we think to the fall collection we could think about the wedges of McQueen; if we think to the s/s 2012 there is Zanotti with this amazing wedges. Now the biggest fans are Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinnes. It's like Lady Gaga is living with these show since she wears theme everywhere. I like the idea of having an "invisible heel" of on average 10 inches (25 centimetres) that allow you to seem tall with an avant-garde outfit without adding "heavy heels" (from the aesthethic perspective) to the outfit. The only doubt is about the future of this designer: how long can Tatehana go on with this shoes? Wouldn't they look boring if every season he shows the same concept? If he changes his style (other kind of shoes) wouldn't he change the own DNA of the maison and, so, loose his own identity?... Too much questions, but at the moment I appreciate the unpredictable shoes of this Japanese designer.).

Images via:
Noritaka Tatehana
Gaga Fashionlad
Daphne Guinness

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Posted in Alexander McQueen , Antonio Berardi , f/w 2011 , Giuseppe Zanotti , Nina Ricci , Noritaka Tatehana , Oliver Theyskens , shoes

Dsquared...ice skate boots!

Dsquared's shoes in the last seasons are the most admired and maybe the most interesting. So, for this winter the creative twins purpose this ice skate boots, their aesthetic is creative and trendy. On the runway the models walk in a way more normal than with other shoes that look more classic (no one fell...). I believe that these shoes will be very popular this winter and that communicate in a wonderful way the concept of the entire collection. The Dsquared woman would like to be chic but with a touch of sportly chic and with a sex appeal (the high heel). 

From my point of view the high boots are better than the low one, because the more sensuality of the model compensates the sport appearance of the heel. The only thing that I'm still wondering is... when the street are iced these boots are useful as a pair of real ice skate boots?

Images via:
Vogue
LuisaViaRoma

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Posted in Dean and Dan Caten , Dsquared , f/w 2011 , ice skate boots , LuisaViaRoma , shoes , Vogue Italia

Sergio Rossi...fall 2011

Francesco Russo, the creative director of Sergio rossi, developed an amazing collection that brings us to a faboulous place that we can call in a lovely way "sergio's wonderland". The geometric shapes of the boots, butterflies everywhere and one or two ruches on each shoes made these shoes absolutely amazing.  The color are shining but not exaggerated and the shape of these shoes is not so "strange or innovative", everything is based on the details of decorations such as butterflies, ruffles or huge polka dots.

I do like that some shoes designer, brands, such as this one, decides not to develop the overall appearance of the shoes on shape or extravagance but on color, details and geometries. It's a great innovation because today there is the idea that if you want to be "innovative", anticonformist (speaking about shoes...) you have to create a strange, sculptured heel, or an extravagant shoes...This is cool, I love it but it's nice, too, when someone shows that's possible to be fashion, to create avant-garde without making shoes absolutely strange and, often, unwearable. 

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Posted in f/w 2011 , Francesco Russo , Sergio Rossi , shoes

Maison Martin Margiela... Boots!

Since Martin Margiela has left his label it looks as MMM is making for every collection more "conceptual" and absolutely "strange" clothes and accessories. After the "flat squared dresses" the creative maison presented this special shoes for the spring. The peculiarity of this boots is the avant- garde aestethic that I'm not sure if I like it or not. It's clear that the main risk is that the shoes seem a "broken" ones or that the shoes eats the feet. But this tendance of making shoes with unusual appearance or better like two shoes in one ( this model seems made up by the shoes and the sole, as a different part of the overall boot) is also purposed by Van Assche for Dior Homme. Dior made a nice sandal with a sock that could be wear together or separate. The Margiela's model and the Dior's one are absolutely different. But the element that unifies the two shoes is the desire, the trend, of making "constructed", "multiple", shoes with innovative and futuristic, sometimes, results.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

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Posted in Maison Martin Margiela , Net-a-Porter , s/s 2011 , shoes

Brian Atwood...very elegant shoes!

Bridal shoes are, often, really boring. Classic white shoes, very elegant but, in general, they are all the same even if there are a lot of deisgners who try to make "innovative" shoes for bridal: from Louboutin to Blahnik, I was always bored by their creations (speaking about bridal shoes). 

Brian Atwood tries to be quite classic with an innovativer touch. This looks as a controsense, but I think that this is the best defintion for this shoes: an innovative classic aesthetic.

The heel measures 12 centimeters and the sandals are embellished with floral and shimmering Swarovski crystals. The satin, the flowers and the  glittered heels make these shape the most chic model and the most interesting one for a bridal. The only "problem" is the price, but for this piece of art I think that every price is right: on Net-a-Porter these shoes are sold for $3,440. The only thing that leave me in doubt is that these shoes could "move" the attention from the gown to the sandals. In fact accessories (shoes, bags and jewels....) should be only accessories and not the centre of the outfit. So this shoes are nice and wonderful, for me,  but there is the great risk that they "obscure" the gown.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

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Posted in Brian Atwood , Net-a-Porter , s/s 2011 , shoes

Alexander McQueen...f/w 2011

Wonderful collection. I think that the first feeling that everyone should have when see this show is an "sensation of amazement". The style is the classic McQueen but it's is "clean" by the more simple soul of Sarah Burton.  The collection is the right "sequel" of the s/s 2011 one.  The colors are white, black, grey, violet and a mix of colors in some wedges and bustiers. The shoulder are really strong and the shoes are strange in a classic way. I mean that the heels of the wedges are absolutely "gorgeus and strange" but I like them. The dresses are perfect, McQueen, I'm sure, would be proud of this show. The feathers are used in the most wonderful way that I've ever seen. In particular geometries and volumes of skirts are really beautiful. This woman is a McQueen woman with  touch of  "sex provocation" due to leather straps and  studds mix with the supreme elegance of fur details, feathers and  colors. A queen of purity who is also a "warrior woman" which loves to wear romantic but strong clothes. A new kind of "fashion-drama" that is matched with sweet touchs obtained by the use of materials and the soft volumes of the skirts, at least of the first ones.  My favourite dress is the one in the last pic, the embroidery could remind a bit some Givenchy, Tisci, creations but I think that here is developed in a better way than Tisci did. The fringes and the black remind also dresses of Rodarte, but I think that even in this case Burton, McQueen, is better. The best dress of the show: wearable and exagerate, really my favourite ones.

Images via:
Vogue 

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Posted in Alexander McQueen , f/w 2011 , Paris fashion week , shoes