Everyone in the fashion world is speaking about John Galliano. I don't want to say anything about his statetements. However, before starting to speak about the show, I'd like to spend two words about the "heir" of Galliano at Dior. Also in this case everyone says something and these are the "candidates": Peter Dundas, Christopher Kane, Alber Elbaz, Hedi Slimane, Kris Van Assche, Riccardo Tisci, Stefano Pilati, Oliver Theyskens, Marc Jacobs, Haider Ackermann. So a lots of big and importnat names., someone absolutely improbable and crazy, for me. The most "accredited" are Pilati, Tisci, Dundas and Slimane. Arnault met Pilati three times in this week and someone, of style.it, thinks that could be a possibility to put Pilati at Dior and Slimane at YSL. Anna dello Russo thinsk that tisci would be amazing at Dior but Kathy Horin said that he is too gloomy ( I agree), Stefano Tonchi and Tim Blanks purposed Peter Dundas, actually at Pucci, someone else purposed also Camille Miceli, assistant of Jacobs and actually creative director of Accessories at Dior. So, I think that now is impossibile to understand anything: all these important people, with a huge knowledge of fashion world, say such different things... However, everyone has an idea and I would be curious to see what Theyskens would do at Dior but, by a realistic point of view, he has been fired because his clothes weren't enough commercial, so I find that this is illogic. I don't know what Arnault would choose but I can't imagine Pilati to design Dior or Dior Couture....it would be a disaster, for me. Dundas is too "commercial" and "predicatable" for Dior. Tisci si doing a wonderful work at Givenchy and so why should he be moved? About the others they are only nice rumors, nothing more.
Now, finally, I will speak about the show. To be completely honest if this wouldn't be the last Galliano collection for Dior maybe I don't review it....but this is, sadly.
So, the collection is an evolution of the f/w 2010 Dior collection and the shoes are a development of the s/s and f/w 2010 ones, especially for the soles. I don't like a lot the "new bags" presented in this show and the shoes, apart from the overknee boots. The bags are "boring" and the locks are too Celine style. The shoes are cool, but only on the catwalk or on some celebs. The dresses, especially minidresses, are very romantic sometimes really Lanvin style, sometimes Galliano, sometimes simply Dior. It's a mix of styles with a great use of fur, coats and structured shapes. The tailleurs could be similar to De La Renta ones or Chanel, but the "Galliano touch" is given with ruches, bows and "exagerate fur necks". The show could be divided into two parts: one very strong, sexy and absolutely mysterious and one more ethereal, soft and romantic. In the second part we see the classic Dior dresses, of rtw line of the brand, very simple and with "light nuances of soft colors" (in contrast with the couture ones: colorfull and exagerate in shapes). On the contrary, in the first part there are a lot of bright colors (blues, pinks, greens, reds, violets, purples.... attenuated with whites and blacks). In the end, I think that the show could represent a wide range of women that don't choose to be "chic", "elegant", "glamorous", "trendy" or classic.... but simply decided to wear an unconventional style that we all know, we will remember, as the "Christian Dior by John Galliano style".
4:30 AM
mixagrip
Posted in
Alexander McQueen
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Antonio Berardi
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f/w 2011
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Giuseppe Zanotti
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Nina Ricci
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Noritaka Tatehana
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Oliver Theyskens
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shoes
