John Galliano...feathers dress!

John Galliano has a unique style that gives the best of it in the dresses and tailleurs designed for Dior and Dior Couture. In his collection for his line (John Galliano and Galliano, only the first one is on the runway) we see a lot of extravagant and edgy clothes but not so many "elegant", chic and feminine dresses as we see in Dior's lines. So, every show of Gallaino is a surprise that, the most of the times, remained only an amazing show but unwearable in the real life, also for the most strange stars (think to Lady Gaga).
However, with this white dress and with the last two collections of the Galliano's line I saw a difference, a development of hsi style: a lot of wearable, elegant evening dresses and...chic!
In this case the dress is made by chiffon and by feathers on theskirt, the price is crazy (8000 $...) but the dress is so beautiful. Especially interesting is the volume and the ethereal mood of the dress. Also new the romantic and feminine taste of the dress that made it so right for a special event or a Red-Carpet.
I saw it on LuisaViaRoma  and I decided to post it because I find it really gorgeus, amazing and  with a very personal "soul" that is something a bit different to find in the evening dresses that so many times have all the same style and appearance!

Images and shop on-line:
Vogue (complete s/s 2011 of Galliano)
LuisaViaRoma

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Posted in dresses , feathers , John Galliano , LuisaViaRoma , parigi , s/s 2011

Gaultier and Givenchy... couture s/s 2011

Gaultier repurposed his classic dresses and prints/colors/materials that made him famous. We see a sparkling collection, with a lot of important dresses that are so voluminous  and colored that is impossible not to like them. Their sophisticate appearance and the wonderful ruffle of them make the Gaultier show one of the most particular and interesting show of high fashion paris fashion week.

Riccardo Tisci use feathers and transparences like only he can do. Here the main theme of the last couture collection is developed with a great Japanes influence and a wonderful work about volumes. Givenchy is the essence of gothic-white style. Tisci tries to add volumes, working on the back of the dresses, and the result are very elegant...I find! The most beautiful thing is the minimalism of the tops and the exageration on the skirts...also interesting are the simple lines and cuts that help the elgant and sometimes androginous appearance of the dresses. In the end, a touch of yellow and red make these dresses absolutely young.

 

Summary of other high-fashion shows:

Alexandre Vauthier: Like the other times the shapes and the strong-shoulders are amazing but there's not any innovation: the evening dresses are so classic and some colors are absolutely ugly.

Alexis Mabille: I find it's wonderful the idea to purpose every outfit in a evening version and in a "day" one: the opposition between day and night, always cool!

Chanel: The most boring Lagerfeld collection, please those dresses don't have any link with couture!

Elie Saab: Romantic and etereal dresses, Saab showed a gorgeus collection where every dress was unique and the volumes (obtained only with embroidery) are very chic.

Armani Privè: Giorgio Armani is the most innovative designer in this couture week. His materials are completely new, the light of them and of their colors left me speechless. I don't speak of this collection only because I think that is very complicate (especially for shapes and volumes) that need a specific review wrote by a fashion journalist...so go on Vogue (or other magazines websites...) and check out the show. 

Stéphane Rolland: I believe that this designer has really understood the sense of couture, he presented amazing shapes and volumes with very scenografic and full of drama dresses.

Valentino: I expected something more by Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli designed a too much "ethereal" and transparent collection. Also in this case the couture is almost disappeared apart from some very ancient clothes, but the real problem is that too much times Valentino (with those two designers) purposes the same evening dresses...boring!

Shows (and pics via):
Vogue (JPG)
Vogue (Givenchy)

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Posted in Elie Saab , Giorgio Armani , Givenchy , Haute Couture , Jean Paul Gaultier , parigi , Paris fashion week , Riccardo Tisci , s/s 2011 , Valentino

Dior and Margiela...couture s/s 2011

On monday Dior, Margiela, Armani, Mabille and so on, presented their high fashion shows. Then, yesterday Chanel and Givenchy showed their collections and today the week is closed by Gaultier and Valentino.

But, all these things don't matter with the post. I'd like to speak about Dior and Margiela, today, and then of the other designers.

I start with Dior that is my absolutely favourite brand and show in haute couture week. Galliano is fresh, creative and genious and all these adjectives are not only words but reality. However, you remind the f/w 2010 show of Dior couture that was defined by fresh and spring colors that were more suitable to that season than to winter. Now we see a show for the following spring that is more suitable for the winter than for the spring, so  is Galliano crazy or could we understand it if we watch to  it by a different point of view? I believer that EVOLUTION is the key word to understand all the fashion world...So, if we consider the colors like provocation, like a desire to aovid the clichè and we consdier the shapes (more squared like the f/w 2010 Armani show, more soft and less "exagerate" in the classic meaning of the word like the last Galliano's couture shows, more conceptual and less sexy...) we will understand that Galliano is trying to evolve his vision of couture to reach a new level where the sex appeal and the "past details, past luxe" (that are everytime present in his collections) are replaced by a conceptual and more consciou knowledge of fashion. In the end, and in easier words it's clear that couture is something that must be admired and left speechless and doesn't need all these words that I spent...So, enjoy it without think too much.

About Margiela, I have to say that I love this maison and so my judgements could be a bit subjective and not really objective. By the way, when someone say "Margiela couture" everyone thinks to a stupid, useless and completely unwearable couture...it's so right! But also here the things are changed, developed, evolved. In the s/s 2011, Margiela showed cardboard shapes dresses and here the masion developed the concept in a more wearable way. Here I can see something more similar to beauty than only to "simple0 creativity and conceptuality", here Margiela arrived to a kind of couture that is   (even if it will be worn only by "fashion addicted" and "Margiela lovers"...) more wearable than normal. Maybe it's the absence of Martin Margiela, its team chose a more "commercial" way to make clothes (in this case with commercial I mean wearable...). So, to end the post, I love this collection (it's the first time I really love a Margiela high fashion collection). But the most beautiful things are, for me, the  transparence coat (last pic), [the first interesting result of this kind of coat], and the squared dresses (the right one in particular) where the "intrecciato lavoration" and the shapes are amazingly gathered with a nice result...this is the real minimalism but also the "Prada's maximalism"! 

Images:
Vogue

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Posted in Christian Dior , Haute Couture , John Galliano , Maison Martin Margiela , parigi , Paris fashion week , s/s 2011