Tom Ford...s/s 2012!

Tom Ford has been the creative director of Gucci since 1994 to fall 2004, then Alessandra Facchinetti and later Frida Giannini became creative directors. So, we all remind his provocative style and unmistakable features such has the great attention for sex appeal and the huge use of luxurious fabrics. Then, when Ford left Gucci, he created his own label and his men line was and still is a great success. It was and is due to the patterns, prints and the fabrics but also to the creative idea, innovative conception, of the classic menstyle. The oxymoron between classical style and innovation is the main feature of Tom Ford's men collections.

Since f/w 2011 he decided to start showing a female collection and in the last days was available on YouTube Ford's s/s 2012 collection. I have to say that I'm a big fan of Tom Ford and I love his sunglasses and men pieces. However in my last post about Tom Ford's women collection I wasn't very satisfied from his creations and I'm not again. I mean, I don't want to discuss about fabrics or quality tthat is obviously extraordinary... I want to discuss about innovation. We all agree, I think, that designers must be innovative or otherwise they are just boring as everyone. If we look at Tom Ford collections they look like a pathetic and extremely expensive copy of his old collections for Gucci. This is his style but I want to see something new. Lace dresses, lots of fur..all these things which could seem sophisticated look just "old" for everyone who really follows Tom Ford and fashion world. So, I love Tom Ford but I would like that he will start to show something innovative and interesting, not just clothes which the only utility is to show how money someone owns....

Designers must make fashion clothes not status symbols!

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Posted in Gucci , London fashion week , s/s 2012 , shows , Tom Ford

Iris Van Herpen...a talentuos young designer!

Iris Van Herpen is  a young and a very talentuos designer who worked also with McQueen and that has a unique, really, point of view about fashion. Some shapes could be similar to some David Koma's sresses, the shoes could remind us some McQueen's pieces, but the use of fabrics and the "aesthethic" is absolutely new and unique. On her website she explains in a  wonderful way every collection and her own vision so I don't believe that I need to say something else, watch and enjoy these pics...

Images from: 
Iris Van Herpen

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Posted in Iris Van Herpen , s/s 2011 , shows

Rodarte...McQueen: wedges!

McQueen and Rodarte are absolutely two of the most important brands of our epoque. Both have an avant-garde and peculiar style that, sometimes, could be exaggerate and sometimes so lovely. In general, these two brands have different styles that have nothing in common.

However, in this case we can see a general concept that is shared by these two models. These wedges are amazing by a fashion point of view. In fact, the "constructed-heel" in a baroque and opulent style gives to the entire wedges an innovative appeal that makes these shoes unique in their style. The main feature of Rodarte wedges is the decoration on the silk and the use of wood: wood is the theme on which Rodarte’s s/s show was developed. Alexander McQueen, or better Sarah Burton, decides to use flowers (white, gold or black) as a heel. The general aesthetic is baroque, with some touches of a "gothic-romanticism" for McQueen and "Kirkwood's ones" for Rodarte.

So,  I don't think that we can speak of a "copy" but it’s better speaking about a common inspiration, a "small trend".

 I love the idea (that is characterizing the contemporary heels) to consider the heels as a “beautiful part” of the shoes and not simply a support for the overall accessory. In this way, the creativity, and so the designer, has more freedom and could create this art pieces.

Images:
Vogue
Net-a-Porter

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Posted in Alexander McQueen , Kate and Laura Mulleavy , Rodarte , s/s 2011 , sarah burton , shows

Do menswear and womenswear... still exist?

I desire to give you some ideas to think about the new, or old?, trend of the men to wear feminine clothes. I invite you to see that also Mantegna, in 1500, purposed men in "women" dresses and with leggins. So, the idea of "womenswear" and "menswear" is a modern mind and it's not obviously true...the roles of the two genders change a lot during the time and it's os old to think that a man can't wear a pair of heels or a woman can't wear something masculine. For example Owens, that's married with a woman, wears abitually heels.

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Posted in Bryanboy , Givenchy , Riccardo Tisci , s/s 2011 , shows

Pugh...: from 2009 to 2011

I desire to put in relation three images from the s/s 2009 and the last one from the s/s 2011. It's amazing to see how the visionary designer evolutes himself. By the way, you should see that the first clothes are divided into parts that aren't unified and aren't really beautiful. But the last outfit, last pic, has a unify shape and a visionary sense... In fact it's more beautiful and interesting than the s/s 2009 ones: we can say that he evolutes himself!

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Gareth Pugh , Paris fashion week , s/s 2009 , s/s 2011 , shows