Alexander McQueen...f/w 2011

Wonderful collection. I think that the first feeling that everyone should have when see this show is an "sensation of amazement". The style is the classic McQueen but it's is "clean" by the more simple soul of Sarah Burton.  The collection is the right "sequel" of the s/s 2011 one.  The colors are white, black, grey, violet and a mix of colors in some wedges and bustiers. The shoulder are really strong and the shoes are strange in a classic way. I mean that the heels of the wedges are absolutely "gorgeus and strange" but I like them. The dresses are perfect, McQueen, I'm sure, would be proud of this show. The feathers are used in the most wonderful way that I've ever seen. In particular geometries and volumes of skirts are really beautiful. This woman is a McQueen woman with  touch of  "sex provocation" due to leather straps and  studds mix with the supreme elegance of fur details, feathers and  colors. A queen of purity who is also a "warrior woman" which loves to wear romantic but strong clothes. A new kind of "fashion-drama" that is matched with sweet touchs obtained by the use of materials and the soft volumes of the skirts, at least of the first ones.  My favourite dress is the one in the last pic, the embroidery could remind a bit some Givenchy, Tisci, creations but I think that here is developed in a better way than Tisci did. The fringes and the black remind also dresses of Rodarte, but I think that even in this case Burton, McQueen, is better. The best dress of the show: wearable and exagerate, really my favourite ones.

Images via:
Vogue 

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Posted in Alexander McQueen , f/w 2011 , Paris fashion week , shoes

Giambattista Valli...f/w 2011!

Franca Sozzani said  "Giambattista Valli has definitely showed his best collection to date". I agree with her because I think that, for the first time, Valli mixed pret-a-porter and couture in a right way that's not "too couture" and that's not "too rtw", with a great range of clothes that are perfect for daywear and eveningwear. In particular shift dresses with  the classic "orizzontal stripes blocks" of materials or pattern that are so typical of Valli. The yellow, white, grey and black (the colors of his s/s 2011) are perfectly matched and sometimes it's added a touch of red that give a funny taste to these really chic dresses. The fur details are  sometimes exagerated and sometimes almost invisible but I love them, overall,. The geometries are so squared in particular the long dresses which have kind of skirts who remind the Sander/Lanvin/Margiela ones....Maybe it will be a trend for the following season: squared maxi skirts. 

The only "strange" thing are the romantic, dramatic, dresses who close the show (you can see the black one in the second pic from the bottom.) They are too exagerated and I think that Valli should make better this kind of dresses. In general this show is perfect: drapes, color, materials, shapes....Amazing, this is really my favourite collection of Valli!!!!

Images via:
Vogue Italia

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Posted in f/w 2011 , Giambattista Valli , Paris fashion week

Marni...winter edition!

It's really complicated to speak about Marni because is not a brand that every season is cool. Some seasons is the most trendy brand and other ones is almost "invisible". But I believe that with the cut-off leather accessories (shoes and bags) purposed this winter the brand had riacquired all its popularity.

I think that would be stupid to speak about "beautiful" or "ugly", for this collection, because Marni is a kind of brand that or you like it or you don't like it and it's complicate to say, in general, "amazing" or "wonderful".

However, I find the collection a bit new, even for this brand, because the geometries and prints are mixed with oversize and destructured jackets/skirts. The fur details are "maximalism style" (to quote Miuccia Prada)  and the main elements of Consuelo Castiglioniì's style are "mix'n'match" to develop a glamourous woman  that cares a lot about accessories (especially bags) but doesn't forget to think about patterns of clothes.  The main prints are check, stripes, retrò-patterns, color blocking. The shearling jackets are revamped with fluo color and squared shapes. 

About the shoes are the "classic Marni shoes": completely unwearable, for me, but so right for these outfits.

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Consuelo Castiglioni , Marni , Paris fashion week , pre-f/w 2011

Vionnet...geometries!

Vionnet is, generally, a classic "elegant" freench brand. Its style is, now, clearly defined and I've never expected to see these outfits by this brand. I love the show but it wasn't what I thought that Vionnet purposed. However, I like, really, when brands "shock" me with new ideas.

So, the collection is about "geometries" and "fringes". The geometries are  a new interpretation of the main trend for the following s/s 2011: color blocking (for example:  Gucci...). The mix of the geometrical shapes and the blocks of colors revamp this trend also in the pre collections. The shapes of the dresses are like "trapezes" and the fringes give to the collection a "new french allure": a style which shows a kind of elegance, beauty,  that's not so common in the pre-collections.

Then, the fur (in details and accessories) complete this chic kind of woman and the  chiffon,t  ansparent, dress in the fifth pic is the "iconic" of the new spirit that this collection means for Vionnet.

In the end, I love the idea to shoot the pcis in a garage and I think that is amazing the way in which Rodolfo Paglialunga, the creative director, matched all these trends (color blocking, geometries, fringes, fur, transparences...) in only one collection...cool!

F/W 2011-2012 shows

BCBG Max Azria: I really suggets you to see this collection that is something completely innovative for the brand with a great play with geometries and volumes, cool.

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Paris fashion week , pre-f/w 2011 , Rodolfo Paglialunga , Vionnet

Balenciaga...optical!

I love this collection for its flower power and its energy that maybe is due to the continue evolution of Ghesquiere style. The shapes and the "color blocking" mixed with flowers is something really cool. I find especially interesting the fur details and the print fo that dog: really funny! It's also interesting the contrast between colorfull prints and black and also the leather details: the main features of Balenciaga style. 

The shapes are the "classic Balenciaga"'s ones and the silhouette is really feminne, the only "stupid" thing is the shoes...They are too "flat" and boring. 

By the way the pity is that the images of the details are not still available and so it's really difficult to judge the accesories: the bags are really classic and chic, about the shoes I have the impression that they are not so "innovative" and avant--garde.

Images via:
Vogue

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Posted in Balenciaga , Nicolas Ghesquière , Paris fashion week , pre-f/w 2011

Gaultier and Givenchy... couture s/s 2011

Gaultier repurposed his classic dresses and prints/colors/materials that made him famous. We see a sparkling collection, with a lot of important dresses that are so voluminous  and colored that is impossible not to like them. Their sophisticate appearance and the wonderful ruffle of them make the Gaultier show one of the most particular and interesting show of high fashion paris fashion week.

Riccardo Tisci use feathers and transparences like only he can do. Here the main theme of the last couture collection is developed with a great Japanes influence and a wonderful work about volumes. Givenchy is the essence of gothic-white style. Tisci tries to add volumes, working on the back of the dresses, and the result are very elegant...I find! The most beautiful thing is the minimalism of the tops and the exageration on the skirts...also interesting are the simple lines and cuts that help the elgant and sometimes androginous appearance of the dresses. In the end, a touch of yellow and red make these dresses absolutely young.

 

Summary of other high-fashion shows:

Alexandre Vauthier: Like the other times the shapes and the strong-shoulders are amazing but there's not any innovation: the evening dresses are so classic and some colors are absolutely ugly.

Alexis Mabille: I find it's wonderful the idea to purpose every outfit in a evening version and in a "day" one: the opposition between day and night, always cool!

Chanel: The most boring Lagerfeld collection, please those dresses don't have any link with couture!

Elie Saab: Romantic and etereal dresses, Saab showed a gorgeus collection where every dress was unique and the volumes (obtained only with embroidery) are very chic.

Armani Privè: Giorgio Armani is the most innovative designer in this couture week. His materials are completely new, the light of them and of their colors left me speechless. I don't speak of this collection only because I think that is very complicate (especially for shapes and volumes) that need a specific review wrote by a fashion journalist...so go on Vogue (or other magazines websites...) and check out the show. 

Stéphane Rolland: I believe that this designer has really understood the sense of couture, he presented amazing shapes and volumes with very scenografic and full of drama dresses.

Valentino: I expected something more by Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli designed a too much "ethereal" and transparent collection. Also in this case the couture is almost disappeared apart from some very ancient clothes, but the real problem is that too much times Valentino (with those two designers) purposes the same evening dresses...boring!

Shows (and pics via):
Vogue (JPG)
Vogue (Givenchy)

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Posted in Elie Saab , Giorgio Armani , Givenchy , Haute Couture , Jean Paul Gaultier , parigi , Paris fashion week , Riccardo Tisci , s/s 2011 , Valentino