Ann Demeulemeester Yves Saint Laurent
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci
Valentino Stella McCartney
Commes des Garçons Dries Van Noten
Miu Miu Balmain
Best show: Haider Ackermann
Worst show: Hermès
[I've never chosen a "worst show" in the past post about fashion weeks, but I need to express my feelings about this collection and so I prefer to dedicate some words here than a "real post"]
When Hermès announced that Lemaire would have succeeded Gaultier as creative director I was shocked. I saw his s/s collection, of his own line, and it was terrible... However I decided to give him a possibility, even if it was crazy to put someone who directed Lacoste (despite he worked also, for instance, for Lacroix) to design for Hermès.
By the way, this collection is a" no-shape" collection, no volumes and clothes like "potato sacks". The only "nice" thing are the clothes printed with Hermès patterns. The main problem of the show, for me, is that is nothing new. The leather coats, the down jackets, the trousers, the inspiration (please....hawks??) , the prints are all old things and that were made better in the past.
The last horrible thing is the speech about bags and shoes: ok Hermès wasn't famous for its shoes but it was an institution in bags...And what does Lemaire? preseneted few bags really classic and that doesn't matter with Hermès DNA but only with his inspiration for the collection...I hope that Hermès will fire him or, at least, he will change his style and understand that this is Hermès and not Lacoste.