Famous Fashion 2012

Bowling Lanvin JL

2012-01-08T08:12:00.000-08:00

Lanvin is famous for its wonderful dresses and the iconic sneakers. Alber Elbaz shows every season very awesome pieces and he is really good in making accessories. I believe that Lanvin shoes are always one of the most desirable accessory that women want. Speaking about bags, Lanvin makes nice ones that, however, are not so good to be classified as "it-bags" or must have: these bags, with the same prices of other brands, are cool but you know are different from like a CLASSIC Prada, YSL or Bottega Veneta handbag. BTW, Alber Elbaz and so Lanvin decided to change this thing. For this spring Lanvin made a daybag called Bowling JL that will surely be a must have. The bag is available in three sizes and in luxurious material such as python and smooth calf.

What I love of this bag is its couture detail (The JL initial embroidered on the leather) and the fact that finally even Lanvin is going to have its own it-bag which can really be in competition with other bags such as PS1 or maybe even Kelly.

The bag is already available on LuisaViaRoma.

New year, new life. Happy New Year!

2012-01-01T01:00:00.000-08:00

I hope that 2012 will be a wonderful year for fashion and in particular I would like to see someone really good at Dior, so I chose to post my favourite Dior collection (f/w 07/08 couture) just to remind how beautiful it was when there was the great John Galliano .

Merry Christmas!

2011-12-24T23:00:00.000-08:00

I hope that you are having very nice time and that you will enjoy these holidays. So, I wish you a very merry Christmas with a song that I really love from the last episode of Glee.

Tom Ford...s/s 2012!

2011-12-14T08:00:00.000-08:00

Tom Ford has been the creative director of Gucci since 1994 to fall 2004, then Alessandra Facchinetti and later Frida Giannini became creative directors. So, we all remind his provocative style and unmistakable features such has the great attention for sex appeal and the huge use of luxurious fabrics. Then, when Ford left Gucci, he created his own label and his men line was and still is a great success. It was and is due to the patterns, prints and the fabrics but also to the creative idea, innovative conception, of the classic menstyle. The oxymoron between classical style and innovation is the main feature of Tom Ford's men collections.

Since f/w 2011 he decided to start showing a female collection and in the last days was available on YouTube Ford's s/s 2012 collection. I have to say that I'm a big fan of Tom Ford and I love his sunglasses and men pieces. However in my last post about Tom Ford's women collection I wasn't very satisfied from his creations and I'm not again. I mean, I don't want to discuss about fabrics or quality tthat is obviously extraordinary... I want to discuss about innovation. We all agree, I think, that designers must be innovative or otherwise they are just boring as everyone. If we look at Tom Ford collections they look like a pathetic and extremely expensive copy of his old collections for Gucci. This is his style but I want to see something new. Lace dresses, lots of fur..all these things which could seem sophisticated look just "old" for everyone who really follows Tom Ford and fashion world. So, I love Tom Ford but I would like that he will start to show something innovative and interesting, not just clothes which the only utility is to show how money someone owns....

Designers must make fashion clothes not status symbols!

Marni...H&M and its last collections!

2011-12-04T11:38:00.000-08:00

Here is the video of the official announce of the Marni collaboration with H&M for s/s 2012.

After the Versace for H&M in march there will be another great designer such as Consuelo Catiglioni which will make a limited collection for the Swedish fast fashion company. Jimmy Choo, Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli, Viktor & Rolf, Comme des Garçons, Matthew Williamson, Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin and Versace. These brand are the ones which have collaborate with H&M and sometimes they make amazing collection like Verscae of CdG, sometimes they didn't like V&R. However the amazing thing about Marni is that this brand is maybe one of the brand which makes the rgeatest prints. If we want to think about amazing prints we must think about Pucci, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Burberry, Dries Van Noten, Diane Von Furstenberg and Marni. Marni makes also wonderful bag and shes. Consuelo Castiglioni said that she wants to show again her collection in a cheaper way...If she will really make this I'm sure that this will be the most appreciated collection, even more than Versace.

I posted also some pictures of the s/s and f/w 2012 collections to show you some of the amazing prints which are the main feature of Marni. I love its flowers, its bags but I can't understand the shoes. However, I love Marni and I'm looking forward for seeing this collaboration.

Givenchy handbags...f/w 2011!

2011-11-27T12:48:00.000-08:00

Thanks to Riccardo Tisci Givenchy became one of the favourite brands of the celebs and its accessories are really appreciated. In the last seasons Givenchy made some amazing bags and so I decided to show you the models for this winter (even if some boutiques are starting to think about s/s).

These bags are characterized by the typical prints of Givenchy and its colors. Black blue and green are the distinctive signs of this brand and the "cougar pattern" on the transparent tote makes that nice but not so cool bag (the shape is pretty boring) one of the most interesting bags of this period. The main features of this bags are the simplicity of the shapes and the richness of details and particulars such as the prints, the materials and the new geometries that are developed on the fronts. I know that these bags are not charming as Bottega Veneta's ones or Balenciaga or the ones of many other brands but apart from this very famous brands Givenchy's accessories owns a gorgeous energy and potential that make them very chic.

Nicholas Kirkwood....f/w 2011!

2011-11-18T13:17:00.000-08:00

Nicholas Kirkwood is famous for his asymmetric platform which he improves with new features every season. He adds pearls, wood, cork, leather ...he used every material for his plateau and this season he also showed a more "soft" version of it that make the shoes quite new. The feathers and the mongolian fur creates a nice effect that was never obtains on shoes (mongolian fur is more often used for coats). He also created exaggerate wedges and triangular heels, as well as "crooked" ones so the shoes get a new identity, The shoes that he created for the f/w 2011 of Rodarte are influenced by the Mulleavy's collection which took inspiration from Amish communities and Kansas. So we can see classic shoes with new pattern, for Erdem he just uses the print of the brand and put it on the shoes. In the end we can see a lcd shoes which is characteristic for the heel that reminds the "prickle heel" of Roger Vivier he just "moved" the prickle.

Anna dello Russo and Deacon's hat!

2011-11-11T13:36:00.000-08:00

We all know extravagant style of Anna dello Russo and her unique hats become even year more exaggerate for the ball organized by Carine Roitfeld. During 2010 Anna wore a nice hat by Gareth Pugh and for this year she wore an hat by Stephen Jones for Giles Deacon. The hat is made by a red bird that could seem funny but it's really cool with the black Alberta Ferretti dress that she wore. The Giles collection was amazing and the hat is just perfect for that show, on Anna was so beautiful I like her unconventional fashion. Sometimes people find ridiculous her fruits hats or her outfits but I think that is amazing her courage that allows her to wear clothes directly from the runway and which are always innovative. If we pay attention to her style we can easily notice that she is always very balanced, in this case we can see the red hat matched with that simple black dress: extravagance-simplicity. The overall look appears cool and youth with the "dead bird" that could look "creepy" but is just right for that event.

Versace Atelier...f/w 2011!

2011-11-04T14:52:00.000-07:00

Versace is often worn by the celebs on the red carpet and I think that its "couture line" Versace Atelier shows how good is Donatella in making dreams true. This collection is amazing apart from the first dress worn by Katy Perry which was horrible in that dress, but the other dresses are gorgeus. The geometries and the shapes of the dresses are very interesting, the sophisticated the aesthetic is perfectly matched with Versace DNA which is characterized by huge slits and some architectural shapes which underline the waist and highlight the body. The mix between young fashion and classical elegance is very cool and Donatella is one of the few designers which is able to mix these two style in the same collection. For example, the one with all those letters of the brand Versace it's absolutely modern and so perfect for teenagers but the long dresses are so perfect for mature women so this collection is a couture one that is right for every kind of woman.

Capes are always... trendy!

2011-10-28T12:30:00.000-07:00

Capes are always chic. During f/w 2010 a lot of designers showed them and now the trend came back thanks to Alexander Wang, Valli, Burberry and Pilati which dedicated some outfit to the capes. Alexander Wang used the cape to revision his own urban style and capes give to it a glamourous touch that sometimes is lost by a too urban aesthetic. Saint Laurent, Pilati, developed an absolutely new model maybe the chicest cape ever seen that is very very elegant. Burberry, Bailey, showed a transparent cape with black details that during rainy days would be the best choice. Azzaro added some fur to give a personal touch to the cape. Elbaz for Lanvin showed a very complex and sophisticated model in a nice beige with a nice detail just on the neck: very easy, almost minimalistic, but with the characteristic Lanvin silhouette. Valli didn't show capes but he just use the characteristic shape of capes to "cover" the upper part of the dresses. Owens has a very unique style that allows him to mix his own metropolitan vision of the world with the chic appeal of Paris.

In conclusion capes are still one of the collect trends and I absolutely love them!

Alexander Wang

Yves Saint Laurent

Alexander McQueen

Azzaro

Burberry Prorsum

Rick Owens

Lanvin

Images by:
Vogue Italia
Net-a-Porter

Gaetano Perrone...innovative shoes!

2011-10-22T12:32:00.000-07:00

At the Vogue Fashion Corner I also saw the collection of Gaetano Perrone. This designer experienced at Alexander McQueen and started at Berardi. Her also worked for Ferragamo, Kenzo, Dior, Sergio and Gianvito Rossi. In this collection we can see the "ball as the peculiar element" and the color blocking. The use of feathers and the lightness of some textures is amazing and it develops an amazing shape for the feet. The heels are kinda simple with some particular details like the balls but also a separation between the "heel" and the "toe", obtained with the colors. My favorite one is the shoes in the third picture . It's also nice the platform that is of the right size not exaggerate and not asymmetrical, the simplicity of creativity....quoting Franca Sozzani, sometimes is interesting seeing how designer contain their own genius.

Images via:
Gaetano Perrone

Lady Gaga...Valentino green leather coat!

2011-10-15T12:31:00.000-07:00

I don't want to speak always about Lady Gaga but is just that I saw this amazing Valentino green leather coat on Net-a-Porter and I would like to write about it and so I think that to show a nice celeb that wore it would have been more interesting. So, even if we are used to the strange outfits of Lady Gaga for the first time she just wore something elegant and nothing else. The coat is very simple and I think that even if I don't like the philosophy of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli I believe that they are amazing in creating accessories and coats. The dresses are very sophisticated but not so interesting, they are too boring even if Franca Sozzani appreciate them a lot. The peculiarity of the coat is the perfect silhouette, the bright color and the double breasted bottons with some details on the shoulder that are between the military style and the classic "elegance" of the coats.

Images by:
Vogue Italia
Red Carpet Fashion Awards
Net-a-Porter

A-Morir...visionary sunglasses!

2011-10-09T13:28:00.000-07:00

This is one of the new brands which were showing their creations at the Vogue Talents Corner at Palazzo Morando.

A-Morir is a unique and creative eyewear collection by Kerin.Rose. A lot of celebs such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna or Ke$ha wore these sunglasses. The use of pearls, decoration and unusual details make these sunglasses absolutely interesting and innovative. I especially love the artistic perspective of this brand that give more importance to fashion than to the commercial side. It's very nice that there are still up-and-coming brands which care about fashion and not just money. This nice young designer developed also some sunglasses like the black ones that outside look all "closed" but from the behind of the lenses you can easily watch thanks to a handmade lavoration. The use of gold and crystals help, as well, to make these pieces of art more glamourous and contemporary. I really suggest you to visit the website and to find out something more about this amazing talent.

My favorite one are the feathers one and the black one, which are your favorite ones?

Images from:
A morir by Kerin Rose

Noritaka Tatehana...skyscraping platform!

2011-10-06T04:30:00.000-07:00

Noritaka Tatehana was born in Japan 1985 and he recently created his own brand. I think that you have yet seen some of his very recognizable creations. The key-concept (or if you want the DNA of the maison) of these shoes is the "withouth-heel" sky scraping shoes. The power of these pieces of art is all in the platform and could remind (just to quote some example from the Runway) the Nina Ricci by Theyskens shoes from the f/w 09/10 or the Berardi ones from s/S 2008; if we think to the fall collection we could think about the wedges of McQueen; if we think to the s/s 2012 there is Zanotti with this amazing wedges. Now the biggest fans are Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinnes. It's like Lady Gaga is living with these show since she wears theme everywhere. I like the idea of having an "invisible heel" of on average 10 inches (25 centimetres) that allow you to seem tall with an avant-garde outfit without adding "heavy heels" (from the aesthethic perspective) to the outfit. The only doubt is about the future of this designer: how long can Tatehana go on with this shoes? Wouldn't they look boring if every season he shows the same concept? If he changes his style (other kind of shoes) wouldn't he change the own DNA of the maison and, so, loose his own identity?... Too much questions, but at the moment I appreciate the unpredictable shoes of this Japanese designer.).

Images via:
Noritaka Tatehana
Gaga Fashionlad
Daphne Guinness

Dsquared...ice skate boots!

2011-10-01T15:30:00.000-07:00

Dsquared's shoes in the last seasons are the most admired and maybe the most interesting. So, for this winter the creative twins purpose this ice skate boots, their aesthetic is creative and trendy. On the runway the models walk in a way more normal than with other shoes that look more classic (no one fell...). I believe that these shoes will be very popular this winter and that communicate in a wonderful way the concept of the entire collection. The Dsquared woman would like to be chic but with a touch of sportly chic and with a sex appeal (the high heel).

From my point of view the high boots are better than the low one, because the more sensuality of the model compensates the sport appearance of the heel. The only thing that I'm still wondering is... when the street are iced these boots are useful as a pair of real ice skate boots?

Images via:
Vogue
LuisaViaRoma

Fall trends...floreal prints!

2011-09-28T03:00:00.000-07:00

In these days in Milan there is a very sunny weather and it's like we are still in summer (even if fall started yet). In Paris the designers are showing their s/s 2012 collection (as it happened in NY, London and MiIlan), so everywhere we see summer clothes and most of us are still wearing them. By the way, in the shops there are the f/w winter collections and now we should focus and think about this winter. For this reason I decided to write about this trend that is a fall one (I chose just pics from f/w 2011) but that is a MUST for the spring (I think that everyone thinks to flower speaking about summer even if I'm so bored when I see flower in s/s shows!).

Images via:
Vogue
LuisaViaRoma

Furla...awesome!

2011-09-24T08:25:00.000-07:00

Ijust came back from New Zealand. First of all, I'm so sorry that Ididn't comment all the past posts of the bloggers who follow me but Ifind quite complicated, right now, commenting two months of postingand in this period I'm kinda busy. I apologise not to write aboutfashion week as well but now Milan is almost ended and I find senselessspeaking just about Paris. So, I'm gonna basically continue with mywinter post and when summer will come I will post about thesecollections.I don't write anything about New Zealand but I just saythat is terrible for fashion and there isn't even vogue.

Now,I speak about this presentation because I was invited and I quitelike the collection. I also post some pics of an event sponsored byVogue Italia at Palazzo Morando in Via Sant'Andrea, MIlano, were someup-and-coming designers (also quite well-known like CamillaSkovgaard) I also met a sungasses designer (that makes amazingsunglasses) of which I will speak asap. I hope you enjoy yourholidays (even if now it's quite late to speak about them) and I missall of you so much.

Now,two words about A-Lab Milano (last few pics). This new brand is allabout geometries and prints. This season looks very interestingespecially for the details and the realistic aesthethic of thedresses, the color are really amazing.

Furla,this is the second time that I went to their presentation and I lovethem. They make an affordable kind of fashion but that looks verysophisticated and never boring. The use of ostrich and crocodileprints is always interseting and the studds give that kind ofuniqueness to the bags. The shapes are pretty classic but the details(like I was saying the ostrich basis, the piton one, is just genial)or the simplicity (the fluo cotton bags are absolutely glamourus)make these bags so fresh. What I like of this brand is the practicalapproach to the bags (that is absolutely usefull, you notice it fromthe applied pockets on the bags or all the zips which caracterizedthis bag) and their young appearance. Sometimes I find that fashionis going to be old also the "young lines" (like Miu MIu)make colections for all the ages (from my point of view they loosethe “original purpose of the brand”) and it is really cool to seethat this brand is saving a "young soul". There are alsosome touches of pure creativity like the two bags with that "fur"that remind me last prada fur coats and a Comme des Garçonscollection of some years ago (just the fur, the bag is absolutelynew). The transparent totes with those glittering colors are verynice and they present in a new way the trend of transparence (beforewas showed Chanel, then Prada and in the end the Miss Sicily of Dolce& Gabbana).

jannekesfreubels

2011-09-22T02:40:00.001-07:00

jannekesfreubels

Balenciaga and Chanel...boots!

2011-07-03T00:55:00.000-07:00

I PREPARED THIS POST BEFORE I WENT TO NEW ZEALAND, AUCKLAND AND THIS IS THE REASON I PUBLISH IT. NOW I'M HERE AND I USE AN INTERNET KEY THAT ALLOWS ME TO CONNECT TO INTERNET. BTW, THE CONNECTION IS NOT VERY GOOD AND I FIND A BIT COMPLICATED TO MAKE POST AND TO COMMENT ON OTHER BLOGS. SO I'M REALLY SORRY BUT FOR THE FOLLOWING THREE MONTHS I WILL NOT PUBLISH ANYTHING ON (I WILL RETURN TO MILAN IN THE END OF SEPTEMBER AND THEN I WILL RESTART TO POST). I HOPE YOU ENJOY YOUR SUMMERTIME AND THAT THE HAUTE COUTURE WILL LEAVE US SPEECHLESS!

Since Jak&Jil published that pic...Those Balenciaga boots had a great diffusion on Ashley Olsen, for example. So I don't think that these boots really express the Balenciaga aesthethic but they are very nice and have a lot of nice details, such as "lateral opening" which allows the socks to be a part of the look. These boots belongs to the s/s season but Lagerfeld decides to repurpose this trend also in the winter. In fact during the "volcanic show", literally, Chanel showed those boots and they are a more "simple", almost minimalistic, version of the Balenciaga ones. So I believe that the Balenciaga's boots are mroe innovative, more particular but the Chanel ones are more wearable and communicate in one of the clearest way the Lagerfeld vision of fashion.

Which one do you prefer?

Pic from Jak and Jil

Images from:
Vogue (Chanel f/w 2011)
Lane Crawford (Balenciaga Boots)
Jak&Jil (Last Pic)

Best looks...s/s 2012 menswear!

2011-06-28T15:21:00.000-07:00

Etro

Dolce & Gabbana

Resort collections... best looks!

2011-06-21T08:11:00.000-07:00

Images via:
Vogue

Iris Van Herpen...a talentuos young designer!

2011-06-16T12:03:00.000-07:00

Iris Van Herpen is a young and a very talentuos designer who worked also with McQueen and that has a unique, really, point of view about fashion. Some shapes could be similar to some David Koma's sresses, the shoes could remind us some McQueen's pieces, but the use of fabrics and the "aesthethic" is absolutely new and unique. On her website she explains in a wonderful way every collection and her own vision so I don't believe that I need to say something else, watch and enjoy these pics...

Images from:
Iris Van Herpen

John Richmond campaign...so gothic!

2011-06-10T05:50:00.000-07:00

I saw this campaign on the "L'uomo Vogue" magazine and I'm really sorry that some parts of these pics are deleted but I hope you could understand the "meaning" the same. These drawings communicate the essence of the gothic and rock'n'roll style of John Richmond. The black and white and the dark style of the adv I believe that give us the best image of this maison. I do love that this campaign is not the classic one where clothes, accessories and so on are simply "shown"... here the idea is to express the DNA of Richmond and not just a collection.

There are some words written on the adv, I tried to enlarge them but I don't think that you can see them. So I write these "sentences",.

"Lies sex religion", "destroy disordinate disorder", "vos quod intereo fuck" ("intereo" is a latin verb that means "to die", "vos" means "you" and "quod" means "because or that" and the sentence could be translated, but I'm not sure as "you that I kill, fuck!".

All these phrases express a feeling of "disorder" that these brand communicates through its collections. These words, in the order in which they are put and with these drawings, give us a sense of "movement" and "chaos", that has a wonderful effect for me.

Maison Martin Margiela...lamp!

2011-06-03T03:30:00.000-07:00

Speaking about a large bottle lamp could appear stupid but I would like to put the attention on how the fashion world is "conquering" every aspect of our life and integrating with everything. So, I post this lamp but I could think about the candles of Margiela and Gucci, for example, about the Bicycles (Fendi, Gucci, Chanel...), about the snowboard (Chanel...) and so on.

By the way, Margiela is one of the brand which owns an hotel, wich creates avant garde pret-a-porter and haute couture, wich has a unique point of view...in summary, wich matches design and fashion. I'm thinkig to the transparent shoes, for example. So, this maison is an example, a model, of fashion wich is intergrated in everything and this allows "fashion" to be more open, more "innovative" and so to develop more interesting ideas. I would like that more brands apply this philysophy that is also the one of Armani (armani home, hotel and the rtw/haute couture), Fendi (home and rtw), Missoni (home, hotel and rtw), Versace (home, hotel and rtw), Ralph Lauren (home, hotel and rtw), Oscar de la Renta (home, hotel and rtw).

So, it's true that a lot of brands are applying this èhilosophy: adding to their "classical fashion things" other things of the daily life... but I believe that Margiela is the only one to have a really UNIQUE concept-design idea on which it develops all its creations.

Imagea and shop on-line:
Antonioli

Sergio Rossi...fall 2011

2011-05-28T03:36:00.000-07:00

Francesco Russo, the creative director of Sergio rossi, developed an amazing collection that brings us to a faboulous place that we can call in a lovely way "sergio's wonderland". The geometric shapes of the boots, butterflies everywhere and one or two ruches on each shoes made these shoes absolutely amazing. The color are shining but not exaggerated and the shape of these shoes is not so "strange or innovative", everything is based on the details of decorations such as butterflies, ruffles or huge polka dots.

I do like that some shoes designer, brands, such as this one, decides not to develop the overall appearance of the shoes on shape or extravagance but on color, details and geometries. It's a great innovation because today there is the idea that if you want to be "innovative", anticonformist (speaking about shoes...) you have to create a strange, sculptured heel, or an extravagant shoes...This is cool, I love it but it's nice, too, when someone shows that's possible to be fashion, to create avant-garde without making shoes absolutely strange and, often, unwearable.

Transparences....again?!

2011-05-23T03:30:00.000-07:00

Transparences and PVC had a great diffusion, one of the chicest trend, in the s/s 2010. Prada is the most important brand that interpretated in the most beautiful and wearable way this trend. In the past was Chanel to create a "avant garde" and conceptual version of a bag. This bag, that belong to the f/w 2009, wasn't sold but a lot of magazines and blogs talked about it.

In this spring we see a lot of examples about this theme. Scognamiglio create a wonderful dress, with his caracteristic volumes, that it's not transparent but is made in PVC and has some transparences in the right points. Commes des Garçons creates a nice jacket all transparent, the same "concept" is repurposed by Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum for the following winter: a transparent with some black details jacket. Chloè made some amazing shoes, too. In this case, even if the aesthethic is really beautiful, there is the big risk of condensation especially in spring or in the rainy days.

Lanvin and Chanel use transparences in the heels and make a nice model that is perfectly wearable and trandy. However, I believe that the most wearable, commercial and fashion concept is the Dolce and Gabbana Miss Sicily bag, that is a well done product because it doesn't leave all exposed. In particular there is a transparent but is make softer with the macramè lace and the things that are inside the bag are not all showed to the indiscretion of other people.

I believe a lot in this trend, because it's so fresh and perfect for spring season even if I hope that the progresses of science would help to develop "new materials" which can be transparent and avoiding, at the same time, the problem of condensation.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter (Chloè)
Colette (CDG)
LuisaViaRoma (Lanvin and Dolce&Gabbana)
Chanel
Vogue (Prada and Scognamiglio)

Rodarte...McQueen: wedges!

2011-05-19T03:30:00.000-07:00

McQueen and Rodarte are absolutely two of the most important brands of our epoque. Both have an avant-garde and peculiar style that, sometimes, could be exaggerate and sometimes so lovely. In general, these two brands have different styles that have nothing in common.

However, in this case we can see a general concept that is shared by these two models. These wedges are amazing by a fashion point of view. In fact, the "constructed-heel" in a baroque and opulent style gives to the entire wedges an innovative appeal that makes these shoes unique in their style. The main feature of Rodarte wedges is the decoration on the silk and the use of wood: wood is the theme on which Rodarte’s s/s show was developed. Alexander McQueen, or better Sarah Burton, decides to use flowers (white, gold or black) as a heel. The general aesthetic is baroque, with some touches of a "gothic-romanticism" for McQueen and "Kirkwood's ones" for Rodarte.

So, I don't think that we can speak of a "copy" but it’s better speaking about a common inspiration, a "small trend".

I love the idea (that is characterizing the contemporary heels) to consider the heels as a “beautiful part” of the shoes and not simply a support for the overall accessory. In this way, the creativity, and so the designer, has more freedom and could create this art pieces.

Images:
Vogue
Net-a-Porter

Spring prints...Tahiti and fruits!

2011-05-14T09:07:00.000-07:00

Stella McCartney and Prada prints, for this spring are appearing in every editorial and almost everyone loves them. The chic appeal, the sense of summer and funny approach to fashion is abosolutely gorgeus. Fashion magazines, fashion cities, fashions tores and fashion customers in general are in big cities. It's difficult to find, for example, a Gucci boutique in the countryside. So, we need to leave the stress that is caused by the city life and the conformist elgance. The designers, as they only know how to do, abandon these schemes and purposed a wonderful trend. Gaultier in his Haute Couture decided to use "tahiti prints", taking inspiration from Mexico, and Just Cavalli too. Moschino follows the trends and the amazing thing is that every brand present its own interpretation of this concept (and this personal approach is something that sometimes brand forget and, unfortunately, they copy each other).

So for this spring the idea is beautiful but I hope that these tendance will be developed in the right way, maybe on the style of Stella McCartney (and not Cavalli...please!) that is the designer who shows the most elegant version of fruits print.

Images via:
Vogue

Mary Katrantzou...s/s 2011!

2011-05-09T03:30:00.000-07:00

Mary Katrantzou is a designer that is conquering the fashion world with her wonderful prints and her absolutely new and fresh style.

I find on Net-a-Porter this amazing long dress, which close the s/s 2011 show, with a classic print of Mary and two black sheer silk-chiffon ruched drapes at side.

As you know, fringes are one of the trends of this s/s and a lot of brands such as Gucci, Balmain.... use this decoration. Those two chiffon pieces give to the dress a movement that is like the movement given by fringes but in a more "legant" and innovative way. Katrantzou styel is strange and sometimes could appear a bit exaggerate but I think that with this dress, or in general with her last shows, she is really improving her style and moving to a more elgant one. I hope that she will never abandon these amazing tridimensional prints which make her so unique and different from the other designers.

The dress is all realized in silk and, of course silk-chiffon.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

Complete collection:
Vogue Italia

S/S 2011...Volumes and extravagant!

2011-05-04T03:30:00.000-07:00

Speaking about volumes, Japanese designers are very interesting and they are the best ones in making "extravagant clothes". Commes des Garçons' family (Tao, Rei, Junya) developed big volumes on skirt and top with, sometimes, asimmetry in a way that is absolutely innovative. Yamamoto, who normally uses long and slim silhouettes, decides to create a big knot that makes the coat just right for very convinced fashionistas. V&R are maybe the only designers who are able to develop such big volumes (think to that s/s where, quoting world economic crisis, they produced exagerate gowns with some "holes"...).

However, Valli created nice volmes on skirts...but Margiela, the Belgian designer who influenced our fashion era in such an important way, designed a really "strange shirt". In particular the top looks like a flat squared which modifies at all the silhouette of woman body. It's of course an important piece of design but I don't think that this could really have a commercial succes or being wearable. And CDG top is of course unwearable (this is only a good fashion creation), Viktor and Rolf are unwearable too, I think... So, Valli and Tao (unexpectedlyfor this last one...) are absolutely perfect in the right occasions.

Images via:
Vogue

Maison Martin Margiela... Boots!

2011-04-29T03:30:00.000-07:00

Since Martin Margiela has left his label it looks as MMM is making for every collection more "conceptual" and absolutely "strange" clothes and accessories. After the "flat squared dresses" the creative maison presented this special shoes for the spring. The peculiarity of this boots is the avant- garde aestethic that I'm not sure if I like it or not. It's clear that the main risk is that the shoes seem a "broken" ones or that the shoes eats the feet. But this tendance of making shoes with unusual appearance or better like two shoes in one ( this model seems made up by the shoes and the sole, as a different part of the overall boot) is also purposed by Van Assche for Dior Homme. Dior made a nice sandal with a sock that could be wear together or separate. The Margiela's model and the Dior's one are absolutely different. But the element that unifies the two shoes is the desire, the trend, of making "constructed", "multiple", shoes with innovative and futuristic, sometimes, results.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

Balenciaga...raffia bags!

2011-04-26T14:01:00.000-07:00

Spring is definetely arrived and, here in Milan, the weather looks like we are in summer. The sun and the blue skies let us think about sea and holiday in general. I think that bag are a very interesting accessory that during the summer could be really chic or absolutely boring. So Balenciaga purposes raffia these bags in different nuances of colors. The appearance is absolutely light in a chic style that caracterize every Balenciaga's piece. The shape are a bit classic but we are speaking of raffia bags so with this "unusual material" for everyday bags is better to maintain classic shape. The details are realized in leather and I think that this feature help the overall aestheic of the bag to be more "glamorous" and to abandon, at all, any referrement to beach style.

Images via:
Balenciaga

Brian Atwood...very elegant shoes!

2011-04-22T03:30:00.000-07:00

Bridal shoes are, often, really boring. Classic white shoes, very elegant but, in general, they are all the same even if there are a lot of deisgners who try to make "innovative" shoes for bridal: from Louboutin to Blahnik, I was always bored by their creations (speaking about bridal shoes).

Brian Atwood tries to be quite classic with an innovativer touch. This looks as a controsense, but I think that this is the best defintion for this shoes: an innovative classic aesthetic.

The heel measures 12 centimeters and the sandals are embellished with floral and shimmering Swarovski crystals. The satin, the flowers and the glittered heels make these shape the most chic model and the most interesting one for a bridal. The only "problem" is the price, but for this piece of art I think that every price is right: on Net-a-Porter these shoes are sold for $3,440. The only thing that leave me in doubt is that these shoes could "move" the attention from the gown to the sandals. In fact accessories (shoes, bags and jewels....) should be only accessories and not the centre of the outfit. So this shoes are nice and wonderful, for me, but there is the great risk that they "obscure" the gown.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

Matthew Williamson...feather skirt!

2011-04-18T03:35:00.000-07:00

Matthew Williamson has a great talent in macthing ethnic style with his vision of fashion and actual trends. In this case he created a skirt with feathers (that are a trend of this s/s) and sequins (another trend) on a gold fabrics (quoting Anna dello Russo, gold will be the new black...). SO this skirt si a summary of the main trend of thsi s/s and it's amazing from my point of view that such a small piece of fabric could represent all these things. Maybe the price is a bit high, but in some cases (and this is one of them) every price is acceptable.

Images and shop online:
Net-a-Porter

Hermès...lively adv!

2011-04-15T03:30:00.000-07:00

Hermès campaign are always interesting. In fact, this brand makes adv that aren't a simple "show" of clothes, accessories and so on but Hermès tries with its campaigns to express the spirit of the collections or the maison.

In this specific case, a particular effect gives a lot of movement to all the pics and each shoes, bags....is matched with a "common object" such as scissors, hammer.... The color are bright and in the first image we can admire a foulard that is "extended" to cover completely the body of that woman. The image of this huge foulard was the one from which I was amazed. In fact, in that pic there are some small jars where there are some jam or, they also remind me, an ancient japanese medicine that use "colorated fires" to cure every disease. However, apart from each itnerpretation, it's clear that this image has a great aesthetic that, for me, made the adv one of the most beautiful of this s/s.

Bottega Veneta...so soft!

2011-04-11T03:06:00.000-07:00

Bottega Veneta's handbags are so famous that sometime it looks boring to speak about them. However I think that Maier is doing a great work at this maison and sometimes it's interesting to stop and think about the concept on which he develops Bottega Veneta's bags. We all know Bottega Veneta for its luxury bags and intrecciato. But what about shapes?? For this spring, but in general too, the brand use soft shapes. We see that this s/s is caracterized by a great use of this kind of shape. Jil Sander Market bags (in plastic and in leather), Margiela Market bag, McQueen Faithfull, Marni... This is the time to leave strong and structured shape for softer ones. This is not an opinion shared universally but I think that is a right concept speaking about Bottega Veneta.

These three models are really different and the first two pics represent new bags of this spring. The last one is a classic bag. We see in all these bags a deconstructed shape where every single line is soft and the leather looks like a "flying on the bags". This effect, that is more clear in the first bag, makes these bags more new and interesting. The leather is really soft and so the aesthetic is more natural and less artificial than normal bags. This aspect is underlined by the "corners": they are "beveled" in order to improve the roundish appearance of the bags.

Images via:
Bottega Veneta

S/S 2011...ruches!

2011-04-06T03:30:00.000-07:00

Ruches are conquering every designer. During the last seasons almost every brand decided to use this "decoration" in some different ways. For example, also Simons for Sander uses ruches on maxi skirts; the most minimalistic brand uses ruches. This is one of the things that I would not have ever imagined.

However, we see Valentino, Marchesa, McQueen, Ricci...everywhere an explosion of ruches. McQueen is such an exageration of ruches that only Marchesa 's gown has more of them.

I don't know if this is a trend that will end with this season or will continue...Speaking about f/w 2011 this trend is not so spread even if some brands use ruches (but, as I told, some maisons like Valentino and so on use ruches everytime.

Pilati for YSL is the only one who uses contrasting ruches. In fact, on the neck uses pink that contrast with blue and on the hem there is a little ruching underlined by some white pieces of fabric.

Images via:
Vogue

Nancy Gonzalez...light spring!

2011-04-04T03:30:00.000-07:00

Nancy Gonzalez is one of my favourite handbags designers.

This bag is realized in crocodile and raffia, this particular mix (the mix'n'match with unconventional materials is her first feature) gives a lighter aesthetic to the bag that, otherwise, could be "old" and not so "fresh", for spring.

The shape is classic, might remind the Alma of LV, but the nuances are completely new. Or better, the color of handles and the first part is classic for crocodile bags but the lower part with that use of raffia and the contrasting leather, under it, reinvented the crocodile giving to it a style that is really more youth and without that "past luxe" or "snob" appeal that sometimes crocodile may have. This designer knows very well how to avoid all the clichès about crocodile and this is the thing that I like most of her.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-porter

S/S 2011...stripes!

2011-03-30T03:30:00.000-07:00

Watanabe is become the "symbol" of stripes. For this summer he developed an entire show on this pattern, in a unique way that reflect perfectly his style. This designer that has a lot of success (I think because has learned the creativity by Kawakubo but has a more "commercial" style than CdG or Tao) every season purposes something new. Do you remember that amazing use of denime some springs ago??...gorgeus! The caracteristic of this s/s shows is the huge variety of stripes, there is not any designer who copy another one or presents stripes that are the same of another designer. From the large ones of Sander (amazing, especially for the perfect integration ith the "silhouette" of that collection) to the exagerate ones of Prada. Ackermann's ones are classic and Cèline purposes an asimmetric version.

So, my favourite is Ackermann because I think that stripes are a "classic print" it's not something really new so the designer needs to add something if wants to be innvoative.

In fact, for example, Haider adds his classic "drapes", soft, style. Then, also, Simons, for Sander, is innovative. The transparences, the shapes and the colors are absolutely cool and fresh. Honestly this is not simple, speaking about "wearability", to wear...It's easy to look as a clown or fatter. So, maybe, in the "real life", "real people", should be inspired by Céline, Wu or Fendi where stripes are limited in a specific part of the outfit (shirt or skirts). The other looks are amazing, I know and I agree, but I think that is better, for everyone, to leave them to editors or models or stars...

Images:
Vogue

Lanvin...strong women!

2011-03-28T03:30:00.000-07:00

This is not an "amazing campaign" in the classic meaning of these words. In fact, I think that is something not so new and not so "cool". So, what did I like of these pics?

The perfect representation of the "Lanvin philosophy". Here the models were shooted like during a fight and the sexual energy of the pics is clear. The dresses, the make up and hair style and the bakcground is so Lanvin that I think that this is the most clear explanation of the main "idea" on which is founded the actual style of Lanvin. A strong, warrior, woman who loves to be sexy and glamourous in the same time. This is the Lanvin woman and the style of Elbaz, too.

S/S 2011...feathers!

2011-03-25T04:39:00.000-07:00

With the arrival of spring, some days ago, we forget winter to watch to s/s shows that are becoming already old with the recent presentation of the f/w collection. However, some trends continue for some seasons. This is the case of the fluo colors, for instance, and of feathers. The f/w 2011 season was caracterized by a lot of designers (such as Dsquared, Demeulemeester, Giles...) who purposed feathers. Personally I saw a huge use of this material that sometimes could seem heavy and not so chic.

Speaking about the spring, fortunately, feather are used in a softer way. Bottega Veneta is the best example: the feathers are distributed all over the lower part of the dress and give an effect so glamorous, for me. McQueen exagerated with feathers on the skirt and on the bustier, the entire look could be a bit dramatic but this is McQueen and we love it for this thing, or at least I love that maison. Chanel is really gothic, maybe one of the most innovative Lagerfeld's outfits, and this look is very unconventional for the maison. Gucci use feathers in a way that is very similar as fringes.

So, I love this trend and I think that the best dress is the Maier's one and, in its style, McQueen is the most "particular use of feathers...". (who coul forget the f/w 2009 collection where feather were gorgeus, for me.)

Images via:
Vogue

Versace Atelier...colorfull!

2011-03-22T04:30:00.000-07:00

Donatella has "two souls", at least for her collections. One style "rock and really glamourous" and for Versace Atelier a "romantic, sweet" style that allows her to develop these wonderful dresses. The shape, the "light volumes", the material are all inspired by the couture world with a touch of the "Donatella Versace style". The "classic" sex appeal of Versace dresses is completely modified for a more "elegant and sophisticated" woman. Even if the shapes are something classic, in this collection, is interesting how the prints, the young colors and the main elements of Versace Atelier are mixed with these classic dresses.

The ruches and the lightness of some dresses is mixed with the exageration and the powerfull strong colors of the other ones. The result is a great, complete, show. My favourite dress is the first one and the embroidere green one. In the end, I think that the most innovative dress and the best printed "couture inspired" minidress is the last one, I'm speaking in general about the collections made by Donatella.

Images via:
Red Carpet Fashion Awards

Paco Rabanne...Le 69 Bag!

2011-03-20T04:30:00.000-07:00

The bag was launched in 1969 and it was called "Le 69" bag that was made up of metal plates. Now Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons, re-edit this bag with acrylic, gum and aluminium. The shape and the model are the same of the past. I think that this bag is really interesting because it's an innvoative model, or at least a good reinterpetation, and now there aren't so many bags that are similar with this one. The color is quite good and the shape is classic but nice. In the end, it's one of the most wearable pieces that Kawakubo had ever made.

Images and shop on-line:
Colette

Is still "chic" to be naked in an editorial or adv?

2011-03-17T04:30:00.000-07:00

Naked women in movies, editorials or advertisement is a speech that every year journalists or people, in general, repurpose. But the most important thing is to divide this "topic": the beauty of naked body, the art that they could represent, and the "revolution, anticonformism" appeal that naked bodies could have. The second concept is, today, obviously out, in the worst meaning of this word. It's patetically boring everyone who in the 2011 thinks that shooting a women or man naked or having sex is something "new", no it was in the 60's with Kubrick, Newton and, for example, the movie called "Pretty Baby", (with a wonderful Brooke Shields). In these case the nakedness was "innovative" in the real meaning of this adjective. So, I could think to some editorials of Richardson or advertising of Tom Ford, in our times, but in these last cases the attention was most about sex than nudity. The last example is the horror-porno movie Antichrist with long explicit sexual scenes: this is the best example of the concept, with that film Von Trier didn't want to shock anyone but only to celebrate the human body and other things that don't matter with this post.

This is the beginning of my thought. I believe the nakedness is really chic today but for only one reason: human bodies are the most clear example of beauty. I'd like that you think to a thing that is obvious but really important. Every type of clothes have a seam, human body, obviously, no. There is not any dress who fit the silhouette as the "natural dress": skin. These two things to say that the beauty of the body is unique and is the most beautiful kind of beauty in the world, for me.

Therefore, a good and romantic use of naked women/men is the most interesting and "chic" kind of fashion art that could be imagine by stylists or editors.

This is the reason because I believe that is still chic, glamorous and trendy to purpose naked people in magazines. I choose three recent images: two adv and an editorial of Vogue Italia. I could choose pics by fashion shows but everyone remind the "transparent" tops of Pilati for YSL or the sensual nudity of Scognamiglio, it's useless to purpose such famous photos.

The Meisel's pic could develop a question: when vulgarity meets nakedness what happens? First of all, this is not the case of "my" pic because I believe that vulgarity is not a synonim for sensual photos but means absence of beauty and elegance. Of course my answer is: disaster, when vulgarity is mixed with nudity the result are absolutely horrible and when it happens in fashion....Oh gosh, it's so sad.

So, the answer is: YES, it is still chic to photograph naked bodies in fashion pics!

Chanel adv

Versace adv

Vogue Italia Editorial by Steven Meisel (february 2011)

Jil Sander...fluo without faces!

2011-03-15T04:30:00.000-07:00

I'm almost obsessed with Jil Sander, or maybe with the beautiful fluo colours purposed by Simons....Its menswear show for the s/s 2011 was wonderful, the womenswear show too....Then the trend of the "market bags" and the colorfull minalistic dresses which had "conquered" the red carpets...

Now this amazing campaign. The main idea and the "backgroung" are really classical, how many adv have you seen with a white background? A lots. So, where is the innovation? The new thing is all about faces: here Simons chose a strange thing: not to cover faces, like some designers did, but to "delete" them, only their upper part. So, the result are awesome pics with "half-faces" and, so, all the attention is about color and dresses. In the second pic the effect, at least the one of the first view, is like a "stripes-sea" where we admire an explosion of spring-strong colours. The last is quite classical but nice too.

I love this adv and my fav one is the first one.... maybe for the mix of colors that is real unusual and for the "strange" materials used to make those clothes and accessories.

Images via:
Fashion Copious

Paris f/w 2011...best looks!

2011-03-13T04:30:00.000-07:00

John Galliano

Chanel Balenciaga

Mugler

Rick Owens

Ann Demeulemeester Yves Saint Laurent

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

Issey Miyake

Valentino Stella McCartney

Céline

Lanvin Vionnet

Louis Vuitton

Commes des Garçons Dries Van Noten

Viktor&Rolf

Miu Miu Balmain

Best show: Haider Ackermann

Worst show: Hermès

[I've never chosen a "worst show" in the past post about fashion weeks, but I need to express my feelings about this collection and so I prefer to dedicate some words here than a "real post"]

When Hermès announced that Lemaire would have succeeded Gaultier as creative director I was shocked. I saw his s/s collection, of his own line, and it was terrible... However I decided to give him a possibility, even if it was crazy to put someone who directed Lacoste (despite he worked also, for instance, for Lacroix) to design for Hermès.

By the way, this collection is a" no-shape" collection, no volumes and clothes like "potato sacks". The only "nice" thing are the clothes printed with Hermès patterns. The main problem of the show, for me, is that is nothing new. The leather coats, the down jackets, the trousers, the inspiration (please....hawks??) , the prints are all old things and that were made better in the past.

The last horrible thing is the speech about bags and shoes: ok Hermès wasn't famous for its shoes but it was an institution in bags...And what does Lemaire? preseneted few bags really classic and that doesn't matter with Hermès DNA but only with his inspiration for the collection...I hope that Hermès will fire him or, at least, he will change his style and understand that this is Hermès and not Lacoste.

Images via:
Vogue

Alexander McQueen...f/w 2011

2011-03-10T03:30:00.000-08:00

Wonderful collection. I think that the first feeling that everyone should have when see this show is an "sensation of amazement". The style is the classic McQueen but it's is "clean" by the more simple soul of Sarah Burton. The collection is the right "sequel" of the s/s 2011 one. The colors are white, black, grey, violet and a mix of colors in some wedges and bustiers. The shoulder are really strong and the shoes are strange in a classic way. I mean that the heels of the wedges are absolutely "gorgeus and strange" but I like them. The dresses are perfect, McQueen, I'm sure, would be proud of this show. The feathers are used in the most wonderful way that I've ever seen. In particular geometries and volumes of skirts are really beautiful. This woman is a McQueen woman with touch of "sex provocation" due to leather straps and studds mix with the supreme elegance of fur details, feathers and colors. A queen of purity who is also a "warrior woman" which loves to wear romantic but strong clothes. A new kind of "fashion-drama" that is matched with sweet touchs obtained by the use of materials and the soft volumes of the skirts, at least of the first ones. My favourite dress is the one in the last pic, the embroidery could remind a bit some Givenchy, Tisci, creations but I think that here is developed in a better way than Tisci did. The fringes and the black remind also dresses of Rodarte, but I think that even in this case Burton, McQueen, is better. The best dress of the show: wearable and exagerate, really my favourite ones.

Images via:
Vogue

Giambattista Valli...f/w 2011!

2011-03-08T07:37:00.000-08:00

Franca Sozzani said "Giambattista Valli has definitely showed his best collection to date". I agree with her because I think that, for the first time, Valli mixed pret-a-porter and couture in a right way that's not "too couture" and that's not "too rtw", with a great range of clothes that are perfect for daywear and eveningwear. In particular shift dresses with the classic "orizzontal stripes blocks" of materials or pattern that are so typical of Valli. The yellow, white, grey and black (the colors of his s/s 2011) are perfectly matched and sometimes it's added a touch of red that give a funny taste to these really chic dresses. The fur details are sometimes exagerated and sometimes almost invisible but I love them, overall,. The geometries are so squared in particular the long dresses which have kind of skirts who remind the Sander/Lanvin/Margiela ones....Maybe it will be a trend for the following season: squared maxi skirts.

The only "strange" thing are the romantic, dramatic, dresses who close the show (you can see the black one in the second pic from the bottom.) They are too exagerated and I think that Valli should make better this kind of dresses. In general this show is perfect: drapes, color, materials, shapes....Amazing, this is really my favourite collection of Valli!!!!

Images via:
Vogue Italia

Christian Dior...last Galliano show!

2011-03-05T03:50:00.000-08:00

Everyone in the fashion world is speaking about John Galliano. I don't want to say anything about his statetements. However, before starting to speak about the show, I'd like to spend two words about the "heir" of Galliano at Dior. Also in this case everyone says something and these are the "candidates": Peter Dundas, Christopher Kane, Alber Elbaz, Hedi Slimane, Kris Van Assche, Riccardo Tisci, Stefano Pilati, Oliver Theyskens, Marc Jacobs, Haider Ackermann. So a lots of big and importnat names., someone absolutely improbable and crazy, for me. The most "accredited" are Pilati, Tisci, Dundas and Slimane. Arnault met Pilati three times in this week and someone, of style.it, thinks that could be a possibility to put Pilati at Dior and Slimane at YSL. Anna dello Russo thinsk that tisci would be amazing at Dior but Kathy Horin said that he is too gloomy ( I agree), Stefano Tonchi and Tim Blanks purposed Peter Dundas, actually at Pucci, someone else purposed also Camille Miceli, assistant of Jacobs and actually creative director of Accessories at Dior. So, I think that now is impossibile to understand anything: all these important people, with a huge knowledge of fashion world, say such different things... However, everyone has an idea and I would be curious to see what Theyskens would do at Dior but, by a realistic point of view, he has been fired because his clothes weren't enough commercial, so I find that this is illogic. I don't know what Arnault would choose but I can't imagine Pilati to design Dior or Dior Couture....it would be a disaster, for me. Dundas is too "commercial" and "predicatable" for Dior. Tisci si doing a wonderful work at Givenchy and so why should he be moved? About the others they are only nice rumors, nothing more.

Now, finally, I will speak about the show. To be completely honest if this wouldn't be the last Galliano collection for Dior maybe I don't review it....but this is, sadly.

So, the collection is an evolution of the f/w 2010 Dior collection and the shoes are a development of the s/s and f/w 2010 ones, especially for the soles. I don't like a lot the "new bags" presented in this show and the shoes, apart from the overknee boots. The bags are "boring" and the locks are too Celine style. The shoes are cool, but only on the catwalk or on some celebs. The dresses, especially minidresses, are very romantic sometimes really Lanvin style, sometimes Galliano, sometimes simply Dior. It's a mix of styles with a great use of fur, coats and structured shapes. The tailleurs could be similar to De La Renta ones or Chanel, but the "Galliano touch" is given with ruches, bows and "exagerate fur necks". The show could be divided into two parts: one very strong, sexy and absolutely mysterious and one more ethereal, soft and romantic. In the second part we see the classic Dior dresses, of rtw line of the brand, very simple and with "light nuances of soft colors" (in contrast with the couture ones: colorfull and exagerate in shapes). On the contrary, in the first part there are a lot of bright colors (blues, pinks, greens, reds, violets, purples.... attenuated with whites and blacks). In the end, I think that the show could represent a wide range of women that don't choose to be "chic", "elegant", "glamorous", "trendy" or classic.... but simply decided to wear an unconventional style that we all know, we will remember, as the "Christian Dior by John Galliano style".

Images via:
Vogue

Christopher Kane...galaxy!

2011-03-03T03:46:00.000-08:00

Christopher Kane galaxy prints are becoming "it-prints" (is not a classic definition but I find that it gives you the idea of the concept), we find them on menswear and womenswear clothes which don't loose the Kane's style and his shapes. The silver biker style jacket is made by silk-chiffon, its appearance is more similar to a minidress with a voluminous skirt. The top is transparent and it represents a unique style that I remember to have seen only in Kane collections. The colors are a bit opaque not so brights and the big use of black made the jacket so dark. But the dark (or sometimes gothic) style is so contemporary and trendy in this period, so this jacket is the perfect "innovaitve-jacket" for the following season!

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

My favourite looks from...Milan f/w 2011!|

2011-02-28T11:50:00.000-08:00

Gucci

Fendi Etro

Francesco Scognamiglio

Prada

Gaetano Navarra Alessandro Dell'Acqua

Versus

Bally Salvatore Ferragamo

Marni Frankie Morello

Emilio Pucci Alberta Ferretti

Best show: Bottega Veneta

Images via:
Vogue

Furla....a young and chic winter!

2011-02-26T08:30:00.000-08:00

Wednesday afternoon I was invited by Furla to see their amazing collection for the f/w 2011 in their showroom in Via Sant'Andrea.

The main concept of the collection is the inspiration 'of the 1959s rivamped with some contemporary elements and patterns.

I like especially color-blocking bags because I think that this trend will caracterized all the following winter... Interesting, too, the variety of materials: deer, ostrich print, pvc, intrecciato leather. The shape of the "intrecciato leather bag" is classic but the lavoration and the "degradation" of the nuances of greens of these bags is wonderful. It's also really cool the "mongolian fur", that is a nice alternative to the "fur bags" and "shearling ones" of the last winter. Pvc is used to make the young, chic, "mini-bags" that you see in a lot of glamorous color in the first pic. Another kind of bag is the studded one, with zips which represent a trendy kind of "rock-beauty". My favourite is the gold one.

In the end, there is a "classic and innovative", speaking about shapes, bag that is available in a "big and small version". This model is purposed in other color and is one of the most important model of the collection,.

So, I found this collection rich of innovative and fashion, with a "retro touch" that is something always cool, ideas.

Donna Karan...birds on shoes!

2011-02-25T02:19:00.000-08:00

It's a bit strange speaking about a pair of shoes by Donna Karan but when I saw this model I remained amazed and I can't not share my amazement with you.

This gladiator sandal is realized in suede, decorate with feathers, crystal and silk. The final result is a mix'n'match very elegant and really dramatic that made this shoes so right for a Siriano dress, for example.

A little thing that does't matter a lot, do you see the Siriano show for the following f/w? Don't you find it a bit "ouf of Siriano style"...? I found it really "boring" and stupid respect the classical "leegant" and scenographic Siriano's creations.

However, I return to speak abotu these shoes. I love them because the "birds" referrement it's clear but not too heavy to cover the shoes and the sandal maintains "its identity" with a touch of extravagnt style that is ever cool. It's a "dangerous" mdoel becuase it's really easy to appear "stupid" or "ridicoulous" with that but I think that it could be really elegant, too.

Image:
Shoe Blog

London fashion week...favourite outfits!

2011-02-22T08:45:00.000-08:00

Antonio Berardi

David Koma Jonathan Saunders

Julien MacDonald Matthew Williamson

Burberry Prorsum Mary Katrantzou

Christopher Kane

Temperley London

My favourite show: Giles Deacon!

Images:
Vogue Italia

Marni...winter edition!

2011-02-21T03:30:00.000-08:00

It's really complicated to speak about Marni because is not a brand that every season is cool. Some seasons is the most trendy brand and other ones is almost "invisible". But I believe that with the cut-off leather accessories (shoes and bags) purposed this winter the brand had riacquired all its popularity.

I think that would be stupid to speak about "beautiful" or "ugly", for this collection, because Marni is a kind of brand that or you like it or you don't like it and it's complicate to say, in general, "amazing" or "wonderful".

However, I find the collection a bit new, even for this brand, because the geometries and prints are mixed with oversize and destructured jackets/skirts. The fur details are "maximalism style" (to quote Miuccia Prada) and the main elements of Consuelo Castiglioniì's style are "mix'n'match" to develop a glamourous woman that cares a lot about accessories (especially bags) but doesn't forget to think about patterns of clothes. The main prints are check, stripes, retrò-patterns, color blocking. The shearling jackets are revamped with fluo color and squared shapes.

About the shoes are the "classic Marni shoes": completely unwearable, for me, but so right for these outfits.

Images via:
Vogue

John Galliano...feathers dress!

2011-02-19T03:30:00.000-08:00

John Galliano has a unique style that gives the best of it in the dresses and tailleurs designed for Dior and Dior Couture. In his collection for his line (John Galliano and Galliano, only the first one is on the runway) we see a lot of extravagant and edgy clothes but not so many "elegant", chic and feminine dresses as we see in Dior's lines. So, every show of Gallaino is a surprise that, the most of the times, remained only an amazing show but unwearable in the real life, also for the most strange stars (think to Lady Gaga).
However, with this white dress and with the last two collections of the Galliano's line I saw a difference, a development of hsi style: a lot of wearable, elegant evening dresses and...chic!
In this case the dress is made by chiffon and by feathers on theskirt, the price is crazy (8000 $...) but the dress is so beautiful. Especially interesting is the volume and the ethereal mood of the dress. Also new the romantic and feminine taste of the dress that made it so right for a special event or a Red-Carpet.
I saw it on LuisaViaRoma and I decided to post it because I find it really gorgeus, amazing and with a very personal "soul" that is something a bit different to find in the evening dresses that so many times have all the same style and appearance!

Images and shop on-line:
Vogue (complete s/s 2011 of Galliano)
LuisaViaRoma

NY fashion week f/w 2011-2012....best looks!

2011-02-17T05:43:00.000-08:00

Marc Jacobs Rodarte

Rag and Bone Proenza Schouler

Thom Browne Jason Wu

Malandrino Altuzarra

Michael Kors Thakoon

Hervè Lèger Oscar de la Renta

Theyskens Theory Carolina Herrera

Jeremy Scott The blonds

My favourite show: Marchesa

Images via:
Vogue Italia

Céline...a funny skate!

2011-02-13T12:16:00.000-08:00

This avertising of Céline had caught my attention soon because of the green of the first pic and the funny skateboard of the second one. Before, speaking about the first. The model is walking on a stair holding a "classic" clutch of the french maison and wearing a cool pair of trousers and shirt that are really wonderful for their color and the silhouette that the pants builds on the model's body.

But the really "interesting feature" of the adv is the skate in the seconda image.

There we see an awesome Céline bag, maybe the most succesfull model, and a skate. The contrast between the elegance and chic taste of that bag and the funny appeal, really young too, of the skate is something really fashion. This is the kind of fashion that I like, where a simple picture without any stunning landscape becomes so glamourous because of a "innovative element".

The other pics are a developmnent of the first ones and apart from those colorfull prints the main concepts are the same

Vionnet...geometries!

2011-02-11T03:30:00.000-08:00

Vionnet is, generally, a classic "elegant" freench brand. Its style is, now, clearly defined and I've never expected to see these outfits by this brand. I love the show but it wasn't what I thought that Vionnet purposed. However, I like, really, when brands "shock" me with new ideas.

So, the collection is about "geometries" and "fringes". The geometries are a new interpretation of the main trend for the following s/s 2011: color blocking (for example: Gucci...). The mix of the geometrical shapes and the blocks of colors revamp this trend also in the pre collections. The shapes of the dresses are like "trapezes" and the fringes give to the collection a "new french allure": a style which shows a kind of elegance, beauty, that's not so common in the pre-collections.

Then, the fur (in details and accessories) complete this chic kind of woman and the chiffon,t ansparent, dress in the fifth pic is the "iconic" of the new spirit that this collection means for Vionnet.

In the end, I love the idea to shoot the pcis in a garage and I think that is amazing the way in which Rodolfo Paglialunga, the creative director, matched all these trends (color blocking, geometries, fringes, fur, transparences...) in only one collection...cool!

F/W 2011-2012 shows

BCBG Max Azria: I really suggets you to see this collection that is something completely innovative for the brand with a great play with geometries and volumes, cool.

Images via:
Vogue

Market bags: chic or..cheap?

2011-02-09T03:30:00.000-08:00

This is surely one of the most discussed trend of the last spring... We started to see "plastic bags" on the runway with Louis Vuitton s/s 2010, where Marc Jacobs decided to purpose two version of a really expensive bag (2000 dollars). I think that everyone agree that the Vuitton bags were the worst example of this new kind of bag and showed what it means "pay only for the brand name".

However, this year Jil Sander (for 100 dollars) purposes some acetate bags that could be an interesting innovative solution for make a look funnier or younger. Furthermore, the bag has an aesthethic that is so right for the spirit of the show and its style, so Raf Simons made a wonderful product where the relation between price and quality is good.
But, I see another version of the Jil Sander "bag". The shape of that bag is really with the shopper that you find at the supermarket. So, Margiela presented (not on the runway, only in the shops) a bag (available in brown and black) that has the same shape of the Sander's one but that is realized in leather and that cost more or less 400 dollars. Also in this case the bag reflects perfectly the style of the maison. However, I have to say that I don't like the Margiela bag becuase I think that here the "famous minimalism" of the maison appear a bit "old" and sad. So, I believe that only Simons, for Sander, understood the real "power" (and the limits, too) of this trend, or better of these accesories. In fact the only use of this kind of materials/kind of bags, is to make a look funny and not cheap/sad/ boring. Vuitton, absolutely crazy (the price) and so cheap the appearance. Margiela could make every look sad, not funny: I'm almost annoyed by those bags.

Simons, amazing...I love his style and the style that he is giving to Jil Sander: like Prada a new kind of "minimalism" where the shapes and the cuts are minimalistic but the colors are funny...not the "dark" minimalism of Armani, for example.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma
Net-a-Porter
Vogue

Balenciaga...optical!

2011-02-06T12:30:00.000-08:00

I love this collection for its flower power and its energy that maybe is due to the continue evolution of Ghesquiere style. The shapes and the "color blocking" mixed with flowers is something really cool. I find especially interesting the fur details and the print fo that dog: really funny! It's also interesting the contrast between colorfull prints and black and also the leather details: the main features of Balenciaga style.

The shapes are the "classic Balenciaga"'s ones and the silhouette is really feminne, the only "stupid" thing is the shoes...They are too "flat" and boring.

By the way the pity is that the images of the details are not still available and so it's really difficult to judge the accesories: the bags are really classic and chic, about the shoes I have the impression that they are not so "innovative" and avant--garde.

Images via:
Vogue

Versace...huge cork platform!

2011-02-03T03:30:00.000-08:00

The shoes of Versace are, every season, so particular, new and "exagerated" that is almost impossible not to think about them. The dresses of this brand are really chic and elagant, maybe a bit sexy but however elegant....so different from the shoes.

I don't want to criticize them, I like them, but I'd like to make a little reflection on their appearance and, by the fashion point of view, what they mean.

In this specific case we can see the use of the satin and the cork (for the platform of the second shoes) and a mix between the sportly elements and the chic ones. These shoes are a mix of the most spread trend of this season: the cork, the sport element, the satin, the highest heels...

I believe that they'll have a lot of succes and I find that with a simple outfit they could be amazing. Of course there's the risk to appear like a streetwalker with a terrible wardrobe (yes, everyone could appear like a bitch also in Versace shoes...it's only a matter of matching). But, a simple girl (no elder than 35) with a simple cocktail dress or leather skirt, will appear (I'm sure!!) amazing in these shoes. To be completely honest my favourite is the second (apart from the heel, too much "Lanvin old style") but also the first is quite interesting.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Nina Ricci...f/w 2007-2008

2011-02-01T03:30:00.000-08:00

I decide to speak about the first collection realized by Theyskens for Nina Ricci in the fall winter 2007-2008. In fact, I'm completely shocked by the completely incompentence of Peter Copping, the actual artistic director of Nina Ricci. Every season he purposes the same, boring and too much sweet, show..

But when Theyskens designed Ricci's collections everything was different (Anna Wintour inserted him into her list of the seven best designer in the world).
The collection was focused on a sofisticated woman that like to be elegant and sexy at the same time. The show starts with oversize sweaters that are decorate with different kind of sewing. The cape and the black mini dress have something that remind me Chanel design. In particular the white fur coat is "so Chanel". Also interesting the black and white cape and the long grey dress: so chic. About the evening dresses it's everything so beautiful. From the yellow ones to the white ones they are so sofisticated. The ruching dress one is very sofisticated and the other ones are developed on the volumes that are constructed on the dresses. In particular the use of the feathers and the "futuristic" shapes express us the visionnaire style of this amazing designer.

Also interesting the "transparent heel" that shows the futuristic style vision of the designer.

Images via:
Vogue Italia

Nicholas Kirkwood...summer shoes!

2011-01-30T03:30:00.000-08:00

Kirkwood: the name of the best shoes-designer of this period (this is my opinion...at least.). I love him because he purposes every seasons something new but he maintains his style, too. For example we can always find the "asymmetric-platform" which characterized all his shoes and that became a trend of the last seasons and it is going on.

So, when I saw these amazing shoes on LuisaViaRoma website I have to show you these art pieces. All of them are made with karung and leather or suede, the heels are: 3,5 the first and 13 cm the other two. I find interesting the platform that is smaller than the other season, the colors (soft and almost ethereal) and the line that drive the eyes on the shoes. In fact, are just the lines that give an amazing sensation of lightness which everyone, or at least I, love.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Gaultier and Givenchy... couture s/s 2011

2011-01-28T03:30:00.000-08:00

Gaultier repurposed his classic dresses and prints/colors/materials that made him famous. We see a sparkling collection, with a lot of important dresses that are so voluminous and colored that is impossible not to like them. Their sophisticate appearance and the wonderful ruffle of them make the Gaultier show one of the most particular and interesting show of high fashion paris fashion week.

Riccardo Tisci use feathers and transparences like only he can do. Here the main theme of the last couture collection is developed with a great Japanes influence and a wonderful work about volumes. Givenchy is the essence of gothic-white style. Tisci tries to add volumes, working on the back of the dresses, and the result are very elegant...I find! The most beautiful thing is the minimalism of the tops and the exageration on the skirts...also interesting are the simple lines and cuts that help the elgant and sometimes androginous appearance of the dresses. In the end, a touch of yellow and red make these dresses absolutely young.

Summary of other high-fashion shows:

Alexandre Vauthier: Like the other times the shapes and the strong-shoulders are amazing but there's not any innovation: the evening dresses are so classic and some colors are absolutely ugly.

Alexis Mabille: I find it's wonderful the idea to purpose every outfit in a evening version and in a "day" one: the opposition between day and night, always cool!

Chanel: The most boring Lagerfeld collection, please those dresses don't have any link with couture!

Elie Saab: Romantic and etereal dresses, Saab showed a gorgeus collection where every dress was unique and the volumes (obtained only with embroidery) are very chic.

Armani Privè: Giorgio Armani is the most innovative designer in this couture week. His materials are completely new, the light of them and of their colors left me speechless. I don't speak of this collection only because I think that is very complicate (especially for shapes and volumes) that need a specific review wrote by a fashion journalist...so go on Vogue (or other magazines websites...) and check out the show.

Stéphane Rolland: I believe that this designer has really understood the sense of couture, he presented amazing shapes and volumes with very scenografic and full of drama dresses.

Valentino: I expected something more by Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli designed a too much "ethereal" and transparent collection. Also in this case the couture is almost disappeared apart from some very ancient clothes, but the real problem is that too much times Valentino (with those two designers) purposes the same evening dresses...boring!

Shows (and pics via):
Vogue (JPG)
Vogue (Givenchy)

Jan Taminiau...couturier or crazy designer?

2011-01-27T02:00:00.000-08:00

Jan Taminiau born in Netherland in the 1975 and he worked near a lot of important designer, in particular close Oliver Theyskens. we could see a lot of Theyskens influences in his collections. I knew it with this very particular pic of Lady Gaga who wore a creation of him. So, I decided to take more information about his past collection. I discovered (at least for me that I didn't know him) a new designer which owns a very personal style that is a mix of gothic, elegant, chic and "classic couture" style: the result? Ethereal women that have a big knowledge of themselves. But, as all the best designers, he is also very eclectic... In fact he presented collections full of historical referrements (the empire one....is gorgeus!) or volumes. In the "check, check, mate!" collection we can see an evolution of the british style (I'm thinking ot Vivienne Westwood clothes) that is going to the couture world. I love his high-fashion approach and his desire to overtake the classical borders of couture.
In the end, you can see first of all Lady Gaga, then his shows: some of them are r-t-w ones and some of them couture ones... I suggest you to watch all the shows on his website.

Images and officiale website:
[Lady Gaga] Red Carpet Fashion Awards
Jan Taminiau

Dior and Margiela...couture s/s 2011

2011-01-26T03:30:00.000-08:00

On monday Dior, Margiela, Armani, Mabille and so on, presented their high fashion shows. Then, yesterday Chanel and Givenchy showed their collections and today the week is closed by Gaultier and Valentino.

But, all these things don't matter with the post. I'd like to speak about Dior and Margiela, today, and then of the other designers.

I start with Dior that is my absolutely favourite brand and show in haute couture week. Galliano is fresh, creative and genious and all these adjectives are not only words but reality. However, you remind the f/w 2010 show of Dior couture that was defined by fresh and spring colors that were more suitable to that season than to winter. Now we see a show for the following spring that is more suitable for the winter than for the spring, so is Galliano crazy or could we understand it if we watch to it by a different point of view? I believer that EVOLUTION is the key word to understand all the fashion world...So, if we consider the colors like provocation, like a desire to aovid the clichè and we consdier the shapes (more squared like the f/w 2010 Armani show, more soft and less "exagerate" in the classic meaning of the word like the last Galliano's couture shows, more conceptual and less sexy...) we will understand that Galliano is trying to evolve his vision of couture to reach a new level where the sex appeal and the "past details, past luxe" (that are everytime present in his collections) are replaced by a conceptual and more consciou knowledge of fashion. In the end, and in easier words it's clear that couture is something that must be admired and left speechless and doesn't need all these words that I spent...So, enjoy it without think too much.

About Margiela, I have to say that I love this maison and so my judgements could be a bit subjective and not really objective. By the way, when someone say "Margiela couture" everyone thinks to a stupid, useless and completely unwearable couture...it's so right! But also here the things are changed, developed, evolved. In the s/s 2011, Margiela showed cardboard shapes dresses and here the masion developed the concept in a more wearable way. Here I can see something more similar to beauty than only to "simple0 creativity and conceptuality", here Margiela arrived to a kind of couture that is (even if it will be worn only by "fashion addicted" and "Margiela lovers"...) more wearable than normal. Maybe it's the absence of Martin Margiela, its team chose a more "commercial" way to make clothes (in this case with commercial I mean wearable...). So, to end the post, I love this collection (it's the first time I really love a Margiela high fashion collection). But the most beautiful things are, for me, the transparence coat (last pic), [the first interesting result of this kind of coat], and the squared dresses (the right one in particular) where the "intrecciato lavoration" and the shapes are amazingly gathered with a nice result...this is the real minimalism but also the "Prada's maximalism"!

Images:
Vogue

Best men looks...Milan and Paris!

2011-01-25T03:30:00.000-08:00

No words, only images of my favourite outfits for the following fall/winter:

Mugler and McQueen

Van Noten and Watanabe

Burberry and Gucci

Prada and Yamamoto

Etro and Moncler

Givenchy and Comme des Garçons

Dior and Kenzo

Bottega Veneta and Lanvin

Browne and Simons

Lanvin and Givenchy

Dior and Hermès

Images:

Vogue

Balmain...pin top!

2011-01-24T03:30:00.000-08:00

The t-shirts of Balmain are somethign "legendary" in the last two season and legendary are their prices too.

The green shirt with some holes of the past season that you saw on a lot of stars, surely, was a boring shirt that, for me, was not chic, glamourous or cool...simply a used shirt. Instead, this model that is embellished with safety pins (that are one of the most trendy object since the Versace dress worn by Liz Hurley...) is so beautiful. The appearance is not too much used or destroyed but it's almost chic. In particular, the most important thing is that this shirt represent the style and the "fashion idea" of the Decarnin's design: this is the DNA of Balmain (since Decarnin have started to design for this maison).

But now...speak about the price. This is sold for 1300 euros and the green one for 1000 euros. Ok, the price are completely crazy even if I understand more the 1300 euros for this mdoel than 1000 for the past one. But the question is: Balmain should earn a lot of money to establish its economical position (NYMAG said this on Balmain profile page) but are 5 years that Decarnin is at Balmain, so hasn't Balmain yet solved its economical troubles?

In the end, I think (and Anna dello Russo thinks so) that Balmain is the most stylish brand of our epoque and that its creations are the best representation and mix of shabby-chic, elegance and luxe; but the prices are too much expensive and they are not justified by anything...This is the main reason because this shirt will have a lot of success with celebs but nothing in "real life", also in the upper class society.

Images and shop on-line:
Net-a-Porter

Lanvin....greek goddess!

2011-01-23T03:00:00.000-08:00

This dress is an amazing gabardine and satin washed minidress from the s/s 2011 of Lanvin. Lanvin takes a lot of inspirations from the ancient goddess (obviously, I'm referring not to the "divinities" but to their sculptures...). The drapes, the silhouette, the absence of big volumes or the exagerations of volumes, strong women: this is a summary of the main features of the "Lanvin woman". So this dress is a bit strange for its colors and initially it could seem a bit strange, unconventional, maybe ugly...But then it is addictive. You want it, you need it, all yur attention is captured by the leather belt, then by the satin asimmetrical detail and then by the minidress for its aestethic. So, I can say that this is the most representatvie dress of the Lanvin essence, Elbaz vision of fashion.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Gareth Pugh...futuristic PVC!

2011-01-22T03:30:00.000-08:00

Gareth Pugh is one fo the most innovative and futuristic designers. This dress that he realized for the s/s 2011 collection is something amazing. The collection looks forward and this dress shows exactly this thing: fashion, and maybe also us, needs to look forward and to have a new conception of itself. A fashion that's not only based on the simple creativity and quality but that takes people to go in another world, in another epoque.

So I beleive that this PVC dress, also worn by Anna dello Russo (the fashion editor of Vogue Japan and my principal "style muse") is the slogan of that collection, for me, because it contains all the meanings and the design concepts that were presented in the show. I love this dress, if it is still not clear...

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Jacobs and Vuitton...two shoes, one heel!

2011-01-21T03:30:00.000-08:00

In the f/w 2009 Louis Vuitton purposes ana amzing pairs of shoes with a clepsydra heel that was decorated by two pearls in the middle of the heel. For the following sprins, s/s 2011, Marc Jacobs repurposed this heel with some differences. The heel is more similar to a stiletto and in the middle there is only one glittered, silver, pearl that "substains" all the heel. I believe that the two shoes represents two differents kind of girl: the Vuitton one is somehting more strong for women who known perfectly their fashion preference, their style; the second one, Jacobs one, is for the girls who are still understanding their fashion style, like a meatamorphosis. In fact, I belive that Jacobs in his two principal lines (Marc Jacobs and Vuitton, forget, at least now, his young line Marc by Marc Jacobs) thinks to two different kind of woman (like the most old one and the most young one, but not in age, in knowledge of their own style). It is very confused what I wrote but I'm sure that you'll understand the concept, at least.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Proenza Schouler...pre-fall 2011!

2011-01-20T03:30:00.000-08:00

I don't like to speak about pre-collections because I believe that they are more a "commercial necessity" than one of fashion or people. However, some of these collections are cool and beautiful by the fashion point of view.
It's easy to say that Proenza Schouler is beautiful (maybe the most appreciated brand of this period...) but if you look with attention the collection you'd understand some things. The asimmetrical hem, the special necks of the cardigans and teh shapes. The patterns are colorfull and really new not the simply flower prints or color-blocking...These prints looks inspired by modern art and futuristic ideas. The main themes of the collection are the asimmetry, the patterns and the men elements mixed with feminine ones. The bags are the new PS models with the unqiue lock and the pants are "Marni style" (for shapes) that should be nice on catwalk but could be not so beautiful on the streets...In the end, I love the complete collection!

Summary of men shows:

Alexander McQueen:A collection that doesn't express the style of the british designer and his main features. So I don't like it!
Dsquared: Nothing really special...
Ermanno Scervino: Great down jackets and use of wool, I love Scervino's collections!
Etro: My favourite menswear collection for the paisley prints (caracteristic of Etro), for the wodnerful nuances of browns, for the leathers kinds used and so on!! You must see Etro's show!
Gucci: Amazing coats and jacket, especially for the use of materials: Frida is doing a wonderful work in the last collection of Gucci.
Iceberg: Fresh and adult collection, that look more right for spring than winter...but gorgeus!
Jil Sander: The trend of this spring goes on with fluo color mixed with light ones...An awesome, simple, show!!
John Richmond: Big use of fur coats (very volgar in those versions...) and the patetic "Richmond style" by which everyone is bored.
Marni: Boring, boring, boring, boring, boring...unwearable! These are the words that I think every time I see a Marni men show...
Marc Jacobs: Classic "jacobs" men revamped by new accessories.
Moncler: Innovation about jackets and accessories, expecially by the mix of different materials.
Moschino: A strange shos full of casual and sport elements that I think are more the demonstration of a lack of creativity than innovation.
Versace: Classic Versace show with some new things such as the "heavy" sweaters...

Images via:
Vogue

Woolrich Woolen Mills...f/w 2011

2011-01-18T02:00:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I partecipated at a brunch organized by Woolrich to show the menswear collection for the following winter of the line "Woolrich Woolen Mills". At the brunch were present also Bryanboy (his yellow jacket is so chic) and the designer Mark McNairy and I was so closed to them than I can't explain you my joy. I really thanks Woolrich to have invited me and to have given me this amazing possibility. The brunch took place at Galleria Lorenzelli near Corso di Porta Venezia and I was accompanied by my nice friend Chiara.We eat very good food and the buffet was organized in a tent that was linked with the main theem of the collection: Naval, marine and "Ivy League" inspirations.

The napkins (amazing, as Chiara showed me) were realized with the checked piece of textile (you see them in the last pic).

The collection is characterized by an english style mixed with some contemproary and trendy element such as the proportions, the shapes and the "clear lines". The materials are principal wool purposed in the different patterns and models. The leather jackets are quite classic but really interesting and the coats with the austrian knots define a cool trend for the following winter that also Burberry purposed. The accessories (hats, bow ties, ties and details of coats) are all made with check prints that create a funny aestethic for young and cool men. In the end the shoes, especially the leather boots, are perfect for the clothes purposes (such as the shirts) and I love the "casual-chic" style of them. So, the british style and the american style are mixed amazingly.

The designer who thought these wonderful pieces is Mark McNairy who substitued Daiki Suzuki and who continued to design his line (Mark Mcnairy-New Amsterdam). The Woolrich Woolen Mills is sold at Barney's and Colette, too. The clothes are handmade in America, Pennsylvania, in the historic industry with the same looms of the 1830. I find also very glamourous and interesting the parka realized in collaboration between Mark McNairy and Daiki Suzuki (you can see it in the first image).

At the presentation I also find a book (you see the book cover in the seventh pic) where near each piece of the collection there are the textile with wich is realized.

So, I love the collection, I thanks again Woolrich for the opportunity and the information that gave me about these gorgeus outfits and I suggest you to pay attention about this line because I'm sure it will have a lot of success...

Mark McNairy

Bryanboy

Images by my iPhone and courtesy of Woorlich

Woorlich Woolen Mills website

Burberry Prorsum...f/w 2011!

2011-01-17T00:00:00.000-08:00

I was watching the menswear shows and I was a bit sad because almost all of them were boring nad not interesting...But then I saw Burberry!! Bailey is a genius and his last collections show this thing. Here the colors, the double breasted coats and the use of materials is so chic that define an evolution (definetly) for the brand: more luxurious and cool, but also with a lot of creativity. The prints, the use of PVC capes (maybe it reminds to you the YSL show...), the color not fluo but not classic are intersting and the patterns too, the down jackets are really cool because of the lavoration (the aestethic) and the details (very lightfull). I also love the use of fur (chic because it's not "uniform" but made by geometries and decored with contrast materials). The sweaters are very interesting for lavoration and mixed of materials. My favourite jacket is the left one in the third pic, the only thing I have to criticize is about accessories. I love the crocodile bag (not so Burberry Style but awesome) but I can't see that shoes and bags, oh no.

However is a great collection and I love every season more Burberry I'm litterally dying to see the womenswear collection of the brand...

Summary of the men shows:

Prada: Maximalism or simple absence of creativity...?
Bottega veneta: leather and shapes classic but beautiful, but where the creativity is?
Costume National: an evolution, finally, Ennio Capasa purposes something new and reallyc hic, interesting the asimmetries.
Ermenegildo Zegna: the brand purposes new trend and went out of the clichès, elegant the addition of the fur and for the daywear the itlaian maison presents a travel-glamourous man with a lot of charme.
Gianfranco Ferrè: a delusion after the amazing show of the f/w 2010 this is boring, classic and is somethign horrific to see at ferrè...Where is the creaivity and geniality of Aquilano&Rimondi?
Jil Sander: Somons goes on with the fluo trend and the extreme simple lines that he creates. I like the collection because it's really Jil Sander style but I don't like the jacket too sportly!
Missoni: old clothes and not so new, the brand made a lot of effort in womenswear but there's not creativity in menswer. The only new thing are the hats that cover the faces but the appearance of the models is more like old people than mysterious young fascinating men.
Roberto Cavalli: interesting knitwear and fur coat but the other compeltely boring!
Salvatore Ferragamo: clean collection, elgant and perfectly allineated with the philosophy of the maison. I love the use of whtie and soft (but strong) color: Massimiliano Giornetti made a wonderful work...the contemporary dandy!
Vivienne Westwood: one word: finally a wearable collection....

Images via:
Vogue

Catherine Malandrino...f/w 2010

2011-01-15T03:50:00.000-08:00

I believe that the soft shapes, the wonderful use of the fur, the mix between the different kinds of fur and the idea to put together technical texture and wool make this collection so amazing. In particular pay attention to the ruches, the harem pant and the volumes that are developed on the mini dresses: everything so chic, that remind us the "Belle Epoque" period. Also interesting the print that comes out from the mini dress.

Images via:
Vogue

Versace....fringe white dress!

2011-01-14T03:50:00.000-08:00

The main trend for the followign season is: fringes! Franca Sozzani (in her"christmas blog spoke of fringes) and I believe taht it's amazign that designer such as versace but also Kane, Gucci and so on use so much fringes. Fringes are somethign trulyw odnerful for the movement that give to the dress and for the shapes that they coudlc reate.

This dress made in crepe cady and sold on LuisaViaRoma for 13000$ expresses the Versace style (I mean the style of Donatella, of course) and the essence of the fringes. The use of them here is gorgeus and the sex appeal of it is really cool! I love the dresses that Versace is making and this is one of my faovurite ones of the s/s 2011 collection.

[A little note: I find the dress almost "ugly" on the runway, but on the model of LuisaViaRoma shop everything is different...]

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Miu Miu...adv s/s 2011!

2011-01-13T07:42:00.000-08:00

This campaign of Miu Miu for the following s/s is full of colors and emotions. I find especially interesting and unique the mix of colors: the shoes (with a color blocking defined by geometries in a "so Prada style") and the pearls of the mini-dress. The mirrors give to the campaing a 3d atmosphere that allow us to understand all the parts of the outfit and their precise appearance. The bag is colored by a fluo pink and give a touch of youth with the jacket. The jacket is a mix of chic and rock. The star and the "freedom" of the prints on the shoulders remind me the Sprouse collection for Vuitton and give a taste of young that should caracterize all the young lines. I find that this campaign reflects the soul of Miu Miu (my favourite young brand) that is a "second line" with a precise spirit and aim: dress the women who want to be young and not so "conceptual" as the ones who wear Prada. By the way, Miu Miu doesn't loose the glamour or luxe features of Prada and every season Miuccia purposeds new collection made by different clothes (of all price from 500 $ to 10000$) and accessories with a big work that consist in a matching between the new ideas and a "revamp" of the past ideas...I find the results amazing!

Image via:
Fashion Copious

John Galliano...f/w 2010

2011-01-11T03:45:00.000-08:00

I believe that Galliano is divided into two parts: one that he expresses at Dior and another one, more creative and trasgressive, that he expresses in his personal line.
The show is caracterized by a lot of volumes, that Galliano obtained with the absence of any structured kind of clothes. He continued on the "russian inspiration" of the last season and for the evening he expresses himself as I told before. The dresses are so sensual and with a lot of transparence: a new concept of sensuality, the classic Galliano sensuality, that is between the past and the present. Also interesting the contrast with the "sportly-chic" shoes and wonderful the idea to put the feathers on the ruches of the pink dress!

Images via:
Vogue Italia

Proenza Schouler...PS1 linen!

2011-01-10T02:00:00.000-08:00

I know that we are still in winter but I believe that we should look at the s/s 2011 collections and, however, we'll have time to think about winter clothes with the f/w 2011 collections....

So, I purpose you this linen handbag by Proenza Schouler that is not particular for the shape or color, but I find truly interestign to see a PS1 (my favourite it-bag, now) realized in a material so fresh and so light: I think that the leather details give to the bag the "Proenza Schouler style appearance" and the linen gives to it the "spring appearance": it's the best match between the style of the designers and the "classic features" of a season.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Delfina Delettrez...eyes!

2011-01-09T03:00:00.000-08:00

This bracelet from Delfina Delettrez is something unique,a bit terrific but extremely chic. The realistic appearance of eyes, the sensation that they gives....amazing! Delfina is the most unconventional jewelry designer. Her creations are ever caracterized by the innovation and that "horror touch" who can make very interesting every looks, also the most boring ones. The gothic vision of Delfina is very trendy and genuine: in this period we can see a lot of designer who try to be "gothic" but their creations are more "boring than gothic", pathetic. She's not so.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Tom Ford s/s 2011 collection...fashion video!

2011-01-06T20:00:00.000-08:00

You surely have yet seen this show and maybe also the video. I don't want to loose a lot of words because I don't believe that this collection is something that needs a lot of words... Tom Ford is a genius (I agree), his work at Gucci was amazing (I agree), his photos and adv are wonderful (I agree), his men collcetion left me speechless (of course), A Single Man is a gorgeus film (I agree)...But this collection?? Franca Sozzani was amazed by it, and Carine Roitfeld too. A lot of blogger, magazines and fashion experts believe that the Tom Ford s/s 2011 women collection si something truly wonderful.... I can't agree. The idea to show the collection in a very private "event" it's really beautiful and also the uncommon models (I love Daphne Guinnes while shoots); but the collection it's not so "new and interesting". Or better, I find that some dresses are really cute, innovative, elegant, sexy and "icon pieces" but the most of the collection is boring, not new and if wasn't Tom Ford to design it....It would be criticized. I appreciate the efforts of Ford and also some clothes (I really remained amazed from the use of fringes...) but I believe that Tom Ford could make more and more for his women collections.

Mulberry...alexa!

2011-01-05T02:00:00.000-08:00

This bag is the most famous it-bag of our epoque: Alexa by Mulberry. Mulberry is a brand that is having a great success maybe for the amazing design, maybe for the celebs who wear it, maybe for the womenswear line created some times ago. The Alexa bag is unique for the innovative use and matchign of materials and for the sparkling colors who characterized it. It is purposed in a lot of versions and it is a good "enemy" of the other it-bags, such as neverfull, Marcello, Muse...

This model is made with pony and the handle is realized in "Intrecciato leather", everything is "unified" by the gold details that are present in every Mulberry bag. I love this bag and I'm sure that it will be the most succesfull bag for the following s/s.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma

Givenchy....animalier jumpsuit!

2011-01-04T02:00:00.000-08:00

This amazing jumpsuit is realized by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy for the s/s 2011. The jumpsuit is made in cady and chiffon and its peculiarity is the appearance that's completely different from the others jumpsuit. In fact, it appears more as a "normal" shirt with a pair of pants than the classic appearance of jumpsuits where they appear like somehting "sportly-chic" or "oversize clothes". In this case, we can admire the cotnrast between animalier and black of the pants, all made more ethereal by the addition of the chiffon....that designs a very feminine silhouette. Also gorgeus the zips and chains on the pants.

Images and shop on-line:
LuisaViaRoma